|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Bingham 1987|
|Submitted By:||Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007|
|Comments on Testosterone Test||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: SL UT
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
One of the first hard routes to usher in the wave of difficult climbing that would define the City of Rocks throughout the late 1980's and into the early 1990's.
The starting mantle was orignally refered to as the 10,000 calorie mantle, and the testosterone test refers to the committing crux moves negotiating the bulge protected by the Lost Arrow pin in a horizontal seam. I also recall placing a clever horizonal #4 friend that seemed like a key feel-good piece higher above the pin. Stick clip the first bolt or else!
By Brian Waters
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 26, 2012
I second the stick clip.
The first crux felt like V4-V5, and the rest of the route is significantly easier.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 29, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|the bolts, hangers and anchor all need replacement on this. and yes a #4 is nice in the horizontal slot.|