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Witches' Tower
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It's My Swamp T 
Nala T 
No Direction Home S 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone T,S 
Scarecrow T 
Teenage Terrorists S 
Tese S 
Tipskin Jihad S 
War is Love S 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 


YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Hand, Bob D'Antonio, Irina Overeem, Ron Olsen and Kent Lugbill
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,635
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 22, 2005

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Approaching the third bolt.

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  • Description 

    Start right of Romancing the Stone. Climb up a cool face making nice moves on edges and knobs past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be place before the third bolt. Make cool moves stemming up and over several small overhangs to the anchor.

    ADD on: 6/10/08...Greg Hand and Bob D just added a extension past the anchor climbing along a cool arete with great moves. The route is now 100 feet long and 11 bolts. Be careful lowering as a 60-meter rope just makes it to the ground.

    A great addition and one of the best 5.10 sport routes in the Canyon.


    Ten clips and a yellow Alien will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Tese Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a stee...
    BETA PHOTO: Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a stee...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising up Tese.
    Cruising up Tese.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.
    Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
    Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the secon...
    Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the secon...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the r...
    Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent. ...
    Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent. ...

    Comments on Tese Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2015
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 23, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    An excellent, sustained route with varied moves.

    If you're headed to Sherwood Forest, stop here first and do this route!
    By kyle lefkoff
    Sep 28, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A high-quality short line climbs an interesting feature. Kudos to Bob and his team for this fine effort.
    By ac
    Sep 28, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless!
    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Jul 23, 2007

    Heady bottom section for a 10. nice and balancy. Did without the added pro with no problem. I would call this 10c to be consistent with the area not 10-. Definitely worth doing.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 10, 2008

    Tese has been extended to 100 feet.
    Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
    A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure.
    The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right.
    By Jeremy
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 16, 2008
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Really good route. I thought the crux was right off the ground. The extension portion really has a lot of lichen still.
    By Dan Brockway
    From: Boulder
    Jun 26, 2008

    I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys.
    By djoseph
    Jul 13, 2008

    What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.)
    By Friso Schlottau
    Jul 21, 2008

    Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang).
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 5, 2008
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes."

    The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 5, 2008

    Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above.
    By Katie W
    Sep 26, 2010

    This route is full of fun moves with really excellent climbing all the way to the top. I personally found the committing move just before the third bolt to be too disconcerting to attempt without the added pro; my partner, however, did not have a problem relying solely on the bolts.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Jul 28, 2011

    Nice line with interesting climbing.
    By slim
    Aug 24, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Possibly the best 10a sport route in the canyon, I can't think of any better ones off hand. From the moment you leave the ground until you clip the anchors, the climbing is good and fun. The rock is really cool and has a lot of different and interesting features. Be really careful as a 60m just barely gets you back to the ground.
    By Patrick Shwartz
    From: Thornton, CO
    Aug 26, 2011
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    After getting past the first slabby part (crux), the route changes into this cool, chunky roof followed by a beautifully exposed arete. Amazing, sustained climb.
    By Grant Gerhard
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 27, 2011

    Holy crap was this one was fun. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face afterwards.
    By Jeff Chrisler
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 26, 2012
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Definitely one of the best 10s in the canyon. Awesome climbing and a nice extension. I found myself smiling every time I put a hand somewhere on the rock where I thought a hold would be, it was there pleasantly. Getting to the first bolt can be one crux depending on how you do it, and the second is the roof. Once that's done, it drops down to very pleasant 5.8 climbing. Do it!
    By Raiden
    From: Royal Oak, MI
    Jul 18, 2012
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Very nice route. Bring a couple slings to reduce rope drag.

    Don't need any gear if you are solid on the grade.
    By T G
    From: Colorado
    Oct 12, 2015

    As of late September 2015, the first bolt is somewhat bent and very loose-- likely should be replaced.

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