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Terror of Tiny Town 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bingham
Page Views: 11,493
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 18, 2004

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Trying to find a stance to place more tiny gear...


This is one of the top three 5.11 trad climbs at the City. The name is very fitting. The crux is protected by a #2 Lowe ball. Gear larger than 1/4 inch is not had until way after the crux.

Start by face climbing past a bolt. (Stick clip?) Fire in some small bomber nuts, and stand up on the small ledge. Place you #2 ballnut which can be backed up with a #2 RP a little lower. A #.2 Camalot can be placed right after the crux lieback moves. Thin pro, tough placements, and pumpy moves lead to a rest ledge. Mid 5.10 moves lead through a finger crack and small roof. Rap 90ft from a 2 bolt anchor.

Try not too have too much terror in tiny town.


Tiny to .5 inch for the first half, large nuts and a #2 Camalot for the final section

Photos of Terror of Tiny Town Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux..
The crux..
Rock Climbing Photo: Terror Of Tiny Town
BETA PHOTO: Terror Of Tiny Town
Rock Climbing Photo: onsight
Rock Climbing Photo: start. stick clip or stick recommended..
start. stick clip or stick recommended..
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning up.
Beginning up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fearless footwork on TTT
Fearless footwork on TTT
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris G, placing more tiny pro after the lower cru...
BETA PHOTO: Chris G, placing more tiny pro after the lower cru...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper roof...
The upper roof...

Comments on Terror of Tiny Town Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 16, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 2, 2005

Don't worry if you dont have a ball nut. its not needed. actually the gear is bomber nuts for the most part. although it looks like it will eat up small cams actually small to medium wires are great. right after the lay back are bomber yellow and blue tcus and # 10 stopper placements. Right after the beginning pumpy moves, great hb # 5 and yellow TCU.
By BruceBurgessNC Burgess
Jun 17, 2006

What a fantastic and sustained route! The only tiny gear I needed was a #5 BD stopper part way up the crack. I didn't place any brass although a #4 HB might protect the start if you don't want to stick clip the bolt. The crack takes great stoppers up to a #13 BD and cams .4 - 2.5 inches with extras in .5 inch range.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 23, 2006

This route is amazing and one of the best crack climbs I've done at the city. I stick clipped the bolt then placed some small HB offsets at the beginning of the crack, I think a #4 and a #5. I didn't use anything bigger than a .75 Camalot, but you may be able to use a #1 Camalot near the top.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 25, 2009

Easier than the other good 11a's at the city(larry's annihilation, interceptor, scar tissue)
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This one made Crack of Doom feel like a breeze. Jumped on it with a belly full of hot pizza and no warmup. Almost lost my pizza half way up it's that tough! All the gear was actually better than I originally thought it would be. The crack swallows all sorts of small cams and stoppers. The beginning is easier than it looks but it's smart to stickclip the bolt since a fall would most definitely break something. The crux is moving off the pedestal into the first 10ft of crack, however the crack slowly gets better all the way to the main ledge, but you've got to work to get there. After that it's a walk in the park to the chains.
By wilcox510
Jun 27, 2010

Fantastic route, but I don't think there is really anything terrifying about it. It actually protects really well with small cams and medium stoppers. I thought think the crux of Crack of Doom is harder, but Terror is much more sustained.
By peter heekin
Apr 12, 2012

It's called The Terror OF Tiny Town
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

After the first clip (boulder up to get that bolt) the gear is bomber. It sucks up small cams and wires if you are strong enough to hang out and place them. For a weakling like me - I have to punch it a ways between placements for any hope of a redpoint. What a fantastic line - as good as it gets.
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This climb is outstanding... Completely agree that it is one of the top 3 5.11 crack climbs at the city. This climb was more consistent at the grade (until the small ledge near the top) than scar tissue. It has perfect rock and great protection.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Oct 8, 2012

"An evil gunslinging midget comes to terrorize the good little people of Tiny Town. The townspeople organize to defeat him, and zany antics ensue..."

By dave bingham
Apr 8, 2013

Yes, it's "Terror of Tiny Town"... like the old movie.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 25, 2014

An awesome route. Can't compare it to other 11s as this was my first City 11a.

The gear beta is spot on. Unfortunately I missed the "#2 for the top" section and had to go for it on a poorly placed small nut.

Heavy on the small stuff down low. I'm a total pansy and placed 13 pieces total for this climb, 3 of which were backups to probably ok pieces.

Beta alert:

There are 2-3 totally locker finger jams/constrictions about every 10 feet after the initial boulder problem, followed by a stellar no-hands-rest before the end section.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
May 30, 2017

There is really only one place to get a good rest on this high-quality, physically demanding pitch - the bottom stance is worse than it looks from the ground. There aren't any super difficult moves, but it required more fitness than I had. Agreed that the gear is completely bomber, but strenuous to lean in to place it.
By Raddam6
Jun 15, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Wonderful climb. Protection is bomber after you clip the bolt. If you plan on leading it, make sure you are ready because it's very awkward and balancey to step back onto the ledge once you've started. Stick clipping doesn't count. The bolt is aftermarket.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 16, 2017

If you buy into Raddam6's banter and fall, there is a good chance you will break your back on the raised ledge at the start.

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