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Terror Dreams 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A1+ [details]
FA: James Garrett & Tyler Phillips 06'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Dec 16, 2008

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the west face below obvious left facing dihedral. Shorter folks will have to nail to the first fixed pin, from fixed pin nail up to 1-2” crack, aid up this to a bolt, make a difficult mantel on the summit.

Location 

Take the onion creek turn off. Count 9 stream crossings. This tower is on your left, in a small amphitheatre, behind a “No Camping” sign. The route faces west, a fixed pin marks the start.

Protection 

(2) #2 angles (1) beak, camalots up to #2 with a few small TCU’s


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By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Aug 16, 2014

This is a quick mini dose of excitement. Micro cams allow this to go clean pretty easily if you can make a gigantic reach off the ground to clip the first fixed piece. As I was transitioning from a drilled piton to a bolt the piton popped out! This felt a bit more heads up than A1/C1 to me. Getting to the first bolt was exciting as the pro is in a fairly thin flake and now with the junk piton gone, you'll either need to do a hook move or possibly improve the hole and fill it with a piton or bolt.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 18, 2015

I replaced the pin that was missing before the first bolt. I placed an angle in the hole that is bomber. For now.

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