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Terminal Preppie 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson 1983
Page Views: 2,775
Submitted By: andyf on Jul 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Greg Olsen on the FA.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


I absolutely love this route!!! Terminal Preppie offers multiple 5.11 cruxes with a great blend of power and finesse.

Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.

Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.


Approach as for Roger's Corner. Terminal Preppie is the first obvious route on the slab left of Roger's Corner.


5 bolts (old bolts replaced in 2007), plus a few supplemental pieces. Definitely bring small wireds for the upper roof and for protecting the small crack/flake above the first roof. A #1 Camalot works well in the flake getting to the first bolt. A #3 Wild Country Rock is perfect for the upper roof. You can place a #2 Camalot in the final horizontal hand crack.

Photos of Terminal Preppie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Terminal Preppie:  Taking a TR run.
Terminal Preppie: Taking a TR run.

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By C Miller
From: CA
Jul 17, 2007

The name Terminal Preppie comes from a Dead Kennedys song of the same name.
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Classic index slab. Hard levitation moves to good stances...and one crux after another till the chains. I think this route sports 4 5.11 cruxs. Beautiful.
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

Safe but exciting runout after the last bolt on non-trivial climbing. Spectacular route that requires some creativity to decipher. Go do it!
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Feb 13, 2016

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