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Wedding Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boltless Baetylus T,TR 
Deranged Sailor T,TR 
High Tide Crack T 
Just Face It... T 
Lost Sailor T 
Low Tide Crack T 
Never Say Nada TR 
North Face (Direct) T 
Pandiculation TR 
Psycho Path T 
Seamstress  TR 
Shellfish Roof T 
Terete Arête T,TR 
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 
Wedding Night Lingerie T 
Unsorted Routes:

Terete Arête 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Any season
Page Views: 439
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 13, 2014

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Terete Arete. The position of this route is very e...

Description 

Arête to the left of the Lost Sailor Dihedral. First ascent unknown, likely in the 70s, and occasionally (rarely) top roped from a ledge you can reach via down climbing 4th class from the stairs.

At the Base of the route you can start up a little 3-4rd class gulley (right) up to the 5.8- section or start the arête directly from the ground (left) 10b. The climbing on the arete is plesant with positive holds but there is very little solid protection and occasional loose holds (although most have been pulled), so just pay attention.

As for the name, Terete is a botanical term meaning "cylindrical or slightly tapering, and without substantial furrows or ridges," a perfect description of this route. Enjoy!

Protection 

The protection on the bottom half is fairly straightforward. Two small offset cams are recommended. As for the top half, time to get creative and also not fall. The top half takes small offset nuts and and a few small cams if you are creative. None of it on the upper section would hold anything though. If you fall and survive, it's probably a good idea to go buy a lottery ticket. I recommend belaying the leader from the very bottom as opposed to the higher ledge above the 3-4th class blocks... more rope out and less force on your crappy gear if you fall off.

The 10b direct arete start requires a #00 and #0 TCU, or similar size.

Location 

Arête to the left of the massive dihedral on the south face of Wedding Rock


Photos of Terete Arête Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun moves on Terete Arete. One of my favorite clim...
Fun moves on Terete Arete. One of my favorite clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Terete Arête
Terete Arête

Comments on Terete Arête Add Comment
Show which comments
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 6, 2014

I've led this about eight times now, it's been a popular TR, especially for beginners. Very enjoyable moves in a beautiful location!

The gear is very difficult to find and requires a lot of creativity (tiny offset nuts and ball nuts are useful). I still miss certain hidden placements each time I do it. Either way you look at it though, the gear is terrifyingly bad. The route is R/X even with the best possible gear.

The 5.10 direct start has solid gear up to the upper arete.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 4, 2015

As far as placing super-reliable pro, it's remarkable what mechanically loud noises one does not hear in the midst of a tempestuous Pacific storm....
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 4, 2015

Hahaaa!!! I do appreciate those Pacific storms that blew those on the P.O. Wall in the early '90s