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Tequila Mockingbird 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell, Don Mellor, Bill Dodd - 1985
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: farkas.time on Aug 10, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Not a great photo but it shows the line

Description 

Intimidatingly vertical, sustained, and pumpy climbing on highly featured rock. This route is by no means pure crack, demanding some finger and hand jams, but also small pinches, side-pulling, and the occasional jugging. Hugely enjoyable from the low crux for the remaining 100 feet.

Climb up moderate terrain to a ledge (tree pictured in Lawyer & Haas 2014 no longer present), traverse right to guano covered alcove, then up and slightly left over bulge (crux) to start gradually easing but still vertical and pumpy climbing (5.8) straight to top. V1 (5.10b) skips traverse (and guano) and climbs up and slightly right to gain easing but vertical climbing.

Location 

Start same as Neutron Brew, at left side of two large (15ft tall) pointy block/slabs. Walk off left or rap from Frosted Mug anchor to the right.

Protection 

Double cams to 1", singles to 3", and ample small/medium nuts. Gear is abundant but a bit fiddly due to irregular and often flaring rock. Be mindful of rope drag down low due to wandering route over abrasive, bulging rock. No fixed gear en route or anchors. Extend belay off tree 30' from top. Top rope possible with 70m rope and extended anchor.


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