I was wondering if anybody have any experience with tenosynovitis (or tenovaginitis) in your fingers, and how you dealt with it?
I have developed a mild-to-medium case of tenosynovit in my ring and middle fingers that came creeping up on me during my last weeks of hard training this winter. It is manageable with ice, massage and by choosing my holds and grip type with care. I can climb hard without pain (even hangboarding) and without an increase in pain in the following days after climbing, but so far it hasn’t gotten any better. This occurred at the end of my winter macro cycle (last four weeks), and I am now hoping that the transition to outdoor climbing with it’s lower volume and intensity in time will take care of the problem as long as I keep it at bay for now. I have had this before in my ring fingers, and since I didn’t know what it was then and it didn’t negatively affect my climbing I just kept on going and it eventually always passed. These past cases of tenosynovitis was more likely caused by repeatedly doing the same move or using a sharp hold, while this time around the cause seems to be a more overall overuse and therefor more persistent.
I have read what I can find online about this injury, and all around the ”professionals” say that you should rest completely and slowly progress into climbing again after the symptoms are gone. This doesn’t fit my mentality, OR the fact that tendons in general respond better to use then rest when it comes to recovery. I am more inclined to go by the Dave Macleod way of injury treatment and try a reduction of volume and intensity while also managing the symptoms.
We use cookies to improve your browsing experience, to show you
personalized content, and for statistical purposes. By continuing
to navigate our website, you accept our use of cookies. Read our
Privacy Policy to learn more.