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Tennis Shoe Crack T,TR 

Tennis Shoe Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,493
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2003

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Tyson Dimmitt learns tight-hands jamming on Tennis...


This route lies in the 'saddle' of the E. Face of the West Wall of Steve canyon, in the Niche between the rocks. (S. Rrock with The Orc and Candellabra, N. Rock holding Super Roof and Let's Get Horizontal).This crack is reached by scrambling up into this saddled from the base fo The Orc or anywhere else in the canyon for that matter, then looking South in the niche. A left-leaning crack starts from the ledge and leads to the top.

Guessing at the cause of the name, we did this pitch in tennis shoes, and found it to be of no real detriment. The difficulty is not related so much to one's choice of footwear as it is to hand size, height (if very very short) and ability to jam.

There is a fixed anchor over the top, not far back from the edge. Belay and rap from that.


A set of cams, from 1" to 2.5", in sequence.

Photos of Tennis Shoe Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start is the crux, and then locker jams.... fo...
The start is the crux, and then locker jams.... fo...
Rock Climbing Photo: making it look easy.
making it look easy.

Comments on Tennis Shoe Crack Add Comment
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By Dynomight510
Feb 2, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Short route but good jams. I found the first 5 moves to be the hardest. The start is definitely height dependent. I am 5-8 and had not problem reaching the solid horizontal jam. Bolts, hangers slung for rapping off. Check em though. They weather.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 10, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Short and sweet with locker jams - it's too bad this doesn't run for a full pitch. One star out of five (more if it was longer).
By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you find yourself in steve canyon with 5 min. to kill, give this one a try. 10 meter rope needed for rappel.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

My friend Sean lead this in his. Yes you guessed Tennis shoes.
By JoshuaTreeRunner David
From: Los Angeles
Oct 22, 2008

Good climbing, but short.
By C Runyan
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2009

As of April 2009, someone has upgraded the two-bolt anchor with chains (good riddance tattered webbing and rap ring). Many thanks!
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 18, 2010

This here's a good route. A fun 5.8 crack for those of us who suck at crack climbing. Yup, it's only 20 feet (maybe I'm secretly thankful about that). There's anchors at the top and getting to the route is pretty darn easy. A must do? Probably not. Good fun? Yeah, I thought so.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 24, 2017

big cams now needed for topside gear anchor. the bolts directly above the topout are gone. new rap anchor now located to climber's right, all the way to the edge of the north face, down Wataneasy Route, presumably to better facilitate rap back to base for those topping out on Watanobe Wall. could now rap down that to a high shoulder and scramble around back to base of Tennis Shoe Crack

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