REI Community
Five Fingers Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Chickenhead T 
Fat Man's Misery T 
Five Fingers T 
Hornet's Rest T 
Scumbag Crack T 
Tenderloin T 
Waltz, The T 


YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Mark P Thomas on May 15, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the left side of the Five Fingers A...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is the rightmost route that ascends from the belay ledges beneath 'Chicken Chickenhead' and 'The Waltz'.

This route has clean & straightforward 5.5 chimneying, with ample opportunity for small gear, making this a good early chimney lead. However, this is a real chimney that requires proper chimney technique, so it will not feel as easy as 5.5 without proper technique.


The belay ledge is reached via a straightforward cl. 3-4 scramble up the first part of Stone the Crows.

You can also start it by first traversing low from a gear anchor at the far left edge of the ledge beneath Fat Man's misery (e.g. if you are working 5 Fingers area right-to-left). Do a broad step across to some fins & hand-sized jam and you're off!

Rappel off a tree to the left between The Waltz & Tenderloin. Note that 1 70m barely makes it down. A 60m might get you to terrain to scramble, but make sure your ropes are even lengths! Worst case, some people have rapped off an intermediate tree that is near the bottom.


I used BD 1x#1, 1x#2, 2x#3, 1x#4. The best option is to make a gear anchor in a crack beyond the rapp tree using hand sized pieces & larger (#1-3, opt. #4-5).

Knee pads might be appreciated.

Photos of Tenderloin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The juicy meat of Tenderloin.
BETA PHOTO: The juicy meat of Tenderloin.

Comments on Tenderloin Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About