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Northwest Buttress T 
Tenaya Peak, North Face Direct T 

Tenaya Peak, North Face Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 21 August 1971
Season: Summer
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Dave Harvey on Aug 31, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


It's mixed 4th and 5th for the first seven pitches, or so, but the eighth we thought had at least one 5.8 move.


Go to the end of the East End Beach, farthest from the road. Go up a stony gully until you reach the living rock and are straight below the summit.
We descended down the NW ridge, facing Half Dome, until we could do a reverse turn to our right onto the brushy ledge that leads back in the direction of the Meadows, until we could scramble down to the beach.


I'm almost sorry to admit it, but we climbed this in the Pitonaceous Era. I don't know modern pro very well, but I'd carry a lot of nuts. I never could afford Friends.

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