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(04) The Balcony
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Ten 'Til Eight S 

Ten 'Til Eight 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This climb goes up the right side of the arete that has Ego Terrorists on the left side of it. Climb suspect rock to the more solid rock above.

Location 

All the way at the end of the Wall of Dreams wall before the large boulder.

Protection 

Bolts to bolt anchors.


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By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 5, 2007

The 5.9 grade on this climb is a little funny, sort of a compromise. As the name suggests, this climb is a little bit of 5.10 to a lot of 5.8. If 5.9 is at your limit, the bottom of this route is going to be a shock. So, I would say that if you climb this one starting from the bottom, up the overhang, it's roughly 5.10a. If you start on the Balcony and traverse in from the right, skipping the first bolt of the climb, it's about 5.8.

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