REI Community
New Wave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air and Pleasant Danger S 
Barking Spiders S 
Black Dog Crack S 
Dark Star S 
Daytripper, The S 
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 
Night Crawler S 
Paradox S 
Retrospade T,S 
Roaring Silence S 
Salley's Alley S 
Sam Spade T 
Schist Another Crack T 
Schist Another Sport Climb S 
Short Wave S 
Smokestack S 
Strict Scrutiny S 
Ten of Spades S 
Vallee Daze S 
Weevil Knevil S 

Ten of Spades 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith 11/98
Page Views: 2,038
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (107)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Looking up you wouldn't know what a cool climb this is.... I also couldn't judge how challenging it would be.... From the bottom, it looked like a steep slab, but once on it, it seemed vertical with super-techy climbing (which I always enjoy)...Basically having to adjust and readjust my foot work for every hand move on the second half of the route...A great test of mid-grade technical 5.10 climbing....

The start is no harder than 5.8, lulling you in to a false sense of security.... You then hit the upper headwall where things get steeper and more challenging.... This section involves tiny crimps, sidepulls, underclings, and even slopers...even clipping the chains presents a challenge cause the hard climbing won't let up once it starts....


2nd route right of the obvious black chimney of Smokestack (5.9), starting under a tree growing out of the cliff 10 feet up....


7 bolts to quick clips....

Comments on Ten of Spades Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Conroy
From: Cambridge, MA
May 7, 2012

Really great description of the route, Lee. This is one of my favorite climbs and everyone who wants an interesting, varied, 10 to climb should get on it. One note: the lower section has some dishes that can hold water for a long time so just watch out for that as you're making the 5.8 scramble to the slabby area.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 14, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Superb, delicate mid-range climbing up the Ten of Spades arete! How would this be for the all-time greatest New England hypothetical 5.10 sport climb/face climb: Climb Ten of Spades which would lead into the Lonesome Dove arete which would finish up the Skunks in the Gym face. Ahhh . . . 5.10 heaven.
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
May 1, 2015

One of my favorites. Tensiony climbing. Don't be discouraged if the bottom is dripping.
By Russ Keane
Jul 20, 2017

Really good description, Lee. This climb is superb. Very aesthetic on high-quality stone. I like the sandstone analogy. Also felt like the Gunks for some reason (position I guess).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About