|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]|
|FA:||Davis and Winkelman|
|Submitted By:||Guy H. on Aug 18, 2012|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Ten Little Indians||Add Comment|
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From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2016
Fun route. The rock quality is less than awesome on a few of the pitches but overall pretty good. I think it's worth saying that although listed as 1500 ft, there is probably another 200-300' of easy 4th/5th class scrambling to get to the first pitch/summit from the end of the last pitch.
Also notably the 5.easy scrambling at the top after the last pitch did have one (brief) maybe 20' section of not easy climbing. It felt about 10+ to my partner and me and was quite insecure and poorly protected. It felt like the mental crux of the route to us and came as quite a surprise when we were expecting to just simul-climb to the summit. I'm pretty sure we were on route as you're following an easy rib/gully that would be hard to stray from. Maybe something fell off? Everything else felt as described.
The decent (left of the face when looking up at the wall) was nasty, though pretty safe. We did not need axes and only touched the snow for about 10'. It was a dry mid-July.
All in all, I agree with the poster that this route makes for a long day and is significantly more committing than The Diamond (or Spearhead).
The belay spot at the end of pitch 9 was incredible. Probably the most exposed position I've ever found myself at on a route.
You probably won't have to wait in line for this one. We found some old bail gear in a few places that looked like it had been there for quite a while.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 18, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
|A full value adventure up a monster, secluded face with varied climbing and incredible exposure. Not to be missed.|