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Ten Karat Gold 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, June 1973
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 4,084
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

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Alan Bartlett on Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Suicide...


Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible (especially on the 2nd pitch).

This is the right-most line on the slab proper and starts near a large oak tree below a ledge. Easy scrambling (5.0) up a right-slanting ramp leads to a large belay ledge and the start of the climb.

P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) The crux comes almost directly off the belay as you traverse right to a small stance and the 1st of two bolts on this runout pitch. Clip the bolt and then work your way upwards, making some 5.9 moves way out from your last bolt. Clip the second bolt and your home free - a bit of slab paddling gains the top. Descend via Bye Gully.


All bolted, gear to 3" for last belay

Photos of Ten Karat Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the traverse on pitch one.  Photo: Robs M...
Starting the traverse on pitch one. Photo: Robs M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Suicide R...
Topping out on Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Suicide R...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting anchor of Ten Karat Gold.  A beautiful an...
Starting anchor of Ten Karat Gold. A beautiful an...

Comments on Ten Karat Gold Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 18, 2014
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Ah, yes... fond memories 15 years ago of cutting my runout teeth on the traverse (and then up!) to the first bolt on the second pitch. Good, exciting times for a relatively green climber. The classic on the wall in my opinion.
By Adam Stackhouse
May 15, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Indeed a classic.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 18, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Rap bolted! Huh.Totally out of carrotier of this FA crew.Hard to believe,First I've herd of it.One of the best,if not the best route on this wall.
By Mike Graham
Mar 19, 2008

Saw the comment on the opening post about a Rap bolted second pitch and I must say it’s so not true. The slab may have been top roped from Sampson to see if it was possible but thats it.

you could be mistaken for the variation pitch which goes straight up from the belay at the top of the first pitch. There are more bolts on that pitch making it more popular maybe because you can’t even see the first bolt on TKG’s proper second pitch.

Thought I would clear that up.


visit this link to read a recent TR on this route.

Ten Karat TR
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 18, 2008

Awesome route.
By Adam Kimmerly
May 29, 2009

Having forgotten my guidebook in the car, I ended up doing the White Line Fever finish not realizing the route went right. The moves to the first bolt on that pitch seemed significantly harder than those on the pitches below - maybe I should have moved left instead of dime-edging up the blank orange slab to the first bolt? That second pitch is fantastic, especially with the sun in your eyes, preventing any possibility of seeing the bolt you're climbing to from the bolt you just clipped!
By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

What an awesome line! 2nd pitch seemed much more serious than the first. After traversing way over from the anchor you finally get a glimps of the first bolt, still way above you. definitely satisfied my craving for spice!
By UpRope
Dec 16, 2010

The cruxy traverse move at the start of P2 seems much easier if one is willing to stem wide. An excellent route,relatively sustained and very interesting the entire length.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 1, 2012

Anyone with rack recommendations for this?
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 1, 2012

Quickdraws should be all you need for the route itself but take some gear (1.5" to 3") for the anchor on the last pitch.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 22, 2013

Scary but not hard. Lots of edges for fingers--fingernails and feet. The runouts are the part that made it hard. Still, a GREAT route and a proud lead for anyone. LOTS of rope drag on the first pitch--I had long slings and forgot to use them at the traverse. The second pitch traverse doesn't produce rope drag because your first clip is well off the belay and AFTER the 10a crux traverse.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Warmed up on this one once, then went over to Rebolting and took a monster fall!
By Tradiban
Nov 18, 2014

Indeed "R" but I felt quite solid the whole time. The best strategy would be to keep going, just enough of a hold will appear, I promise.

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