Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Molly Gabel climbing ever nearer to the second bel...
This is the grand traverse that lets one venture across the Shelter 1 Bluff line. This route allows you to climb high above the grassy field below and avoids the harder sections underneath the overhang. A must for anyone desiring to explore the vertical sphere of the bluff. Absolute Classic!
Pitch 1: Climb the Makanda Layback to the safety bolt, "give the old bolt a spin for good luck" and rig a belay backed up with a small nut.
Pitch 2: Traverse left through the Open Book gully and continue to the "jug chair" above Dim View and Jills. Than rig a belay.
Pitch 3: From here many options appear. Currently due to vegetation, most people climb straight up and finish from here, but depending on the time of year other variations may seem possible.
First Option: go either up or down 10-15 feet and traverse leftward into the Poison Ivy gully. From there climb nearly to the top and traverse leftward all the way to the Chimney in the woods. From there rig a hanging belay, followed by toping out.
Scary Option: (5.9) From the chimney traverse all the way to Georges as a 4th pitch. John Payne had to blindly place a Friend at his feet for the only "worthy" gear.
Standard traditional rack, tri-cams, stoppers, slings.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 continued
Heady Spuds eying the way
Heady Spuds wishing Stevie J placed more gear
Stevie J climbing through the Open Book gully
Stevie J thinking about slinging a block
Heady Spuds beginning pitch 2
Heady Spuds on his first ascent of Tempura Tour pi...
Stevie J beginning the second pitch
Stevie J setting the belay
Heady Spuds toping out pitch 3
Heady Spuds continuing around the arete
Heady Spuds eyeing a placement
Stevie J eyeing a placement
Stevie J getting the low down for pitch 2
By Dave Hug
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Sep 7, 2014