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A. Shelter 1 Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bulge, The TR 
Camel's Hump T,TR 
Chimney T 
City Limits T,TR 
Crackpot T,TR 
Dead Dog T,TR 
Devils Backbone T,S 
Dim View T 
Double Barrel T,TR 
Drunkards Crack T 
Easy Crack T 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test T,TR 
Full Moon Foot Dance 
George's Direct T 
Georges Nose T,TR 
Graves T,TR 
Gully, The TR 
Hip Pocket TR 
Jill's T,TR 
Joe's Variation T,TR 
Makanda Layback T,S 
Open Book  T,TR 
Open Book Direct T,TR 
Poison Ivy Center T 
Poison Ivy Right T 
Rappellers' Demise T,TR 
Return to Forever "Classic" 
Shotgun T,TR 
Standing On Air T,TR 
Tempura Tour T 
Tempura Tour Complete T 
Thackery's Wackery 

Tempura Tour 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Craig Barnes, Gene Charleton 1974
Season: Fall/Winter/Spring
Page Views: 800
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Jun 30, 2014

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Molly Gabel climbing ever nearer to the second bel...

Description 

This is the grand traverse that lets one venture across the Shelter 1 Bluff line. This route allows you to climb high above the grassy field below and avoids the harder sections underneath the overhang. A must for anyone desiring to explore the vertical sphere of the bluff. Absolute Classic!

Location 

Pitch 1: Climb the Makanda Layback to the safety bolt, "give the old bolt a spin for good luck" and rig a belay backed up with a small nut.

Pitch 2: Traverse left through the Open Book gully and continue to the "jug chair" above Dim View and Jills. Than rig a belay.

Pitch 3: From here many options appear. Currently due to vegetation, most people climb straight up and finish from here, but depending on the time of year other variations may seem possible.

First Option: go either up or down 10-15 feet and traverse leftward into the Poison Ivy gully. From there climb nearly to the top and traverse leftward all the way to the Chimney in the woods. From there rig a hanging belay, followed by toping out.

Scary Option: (5.9) From the chimney traverse all the way to Georges as a 4th pitch. John Payne had to blindly place a Friend at his feet for the only "worthy" gear.

Protection 

Standard traditional rack, tri-cams, stoppers, slings.


Photos of Tempura Tour Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 continued
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 continued
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds eying the way
Heady Spuds eying the way
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds wishing Stevie J placed more gear
Heady Spuds wishing Stevie J placed more gear
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds following
Heady Spuds following
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J climbing through the Open Book gully
Stevie J climbing through the Open Book gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J thinking about slinging a block
Stevie J thinking about slinging a block
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds beginning pitch 2
Heady Spuds beginning pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds on his first ascent of Tempura Tour pi...
Heady Spuds on his first ascent of Tempura Tour pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J beginning the second pitch
Stevie J beginning the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J setting the belay
Stevie J setting the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J at the anchor
Stevie J at the anchor
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds toping out pitch 3
Heady Spuds toping out pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds continuing around the arete
Heady Spuds continuing around the arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds eyeing a placement
Heady Spuds eyeing a placement
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J eyeing a placement
Stevie J eyeing a placement
Rock Climbing Photo: Stevie J getting the low down for pitch 2
Stevie J getting the low down for pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Heady Spuds sending
Heady Spuds sending

Comments on Tempura Tour Add Comment
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By Dave Hug
Administrator
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Sep 7, 2014



Classic traverse