REI Community
Wall Street
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Big Corner" T 
30 Seconds Over Potash T 
A Fistful of Potash T 
Another Roadside Distraction T 
Arc Angel S 
Armageddon S 
Astro Dad T 
Astro Lad T,TR 
Baby Blue T 
Bad Moki Roof T 
Banana Peel S 
Best Route Ever T 
Beyer Offwidth T 
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 
Blowing Chunks T,S 
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 
Broken Engagements 
Brown Banana S 
Brownie T 
Campground Crack T 
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 
Chemistry T 
ChrisCross TR 
Coup D'etat T 
Dark Horse S 
Desp-Arete S 
Diplomatic Immunity T 
Dr Strange Flake T 
Dunn Copeland T 
East Of Wrath T 
Eat the Rich T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 
Enigma Campground Route T 
Eyes of Falina T 
Faith Flake T 
Fernando S 
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 
Flakes of Bongo TR 
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 
Frogs of a Feather T 
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 
Half Pipe T 
Hidden Message S,TR 
High Over Datura S 
Holey Moley S 
Horizontal Mambo T,S 
I Love Loosey S 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Jingus Launch T 
Jug Roof T 
Junk In The Trunk T 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Knapping With The Alien S 
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 
Last Tango in Potash T,S 
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 
Little Tufa's T,S 
Lizard Skills S 
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 
Man After Midnight S 
Mephistopheles  T 
Midnight Frightening T 
Mini Me T 
Mini Skirt S 
Mississippi High Step S 
Mother Trucker T 
Neopolitan S,TR 
Nervous in Suburbia S 
No Fly Zone T,S 
Pedigree Poodles T 
Pinhead T 
Points West T,S 
Potash Bong Hit T 
Potash Sanction T 
Potstash S 
Pounding the Frog S 
Practical Religion  S 
Puppy Love T,S 
Ralph the Rat S 
Rhino Might S 
Right Side In  T 
Ring Pin T 
Room With A View T 
Room With A View (free) S 
Sand and Steel T 
School Room Slabs TR 
Seam As It Ever Was T 
Seibernetics T 
Shadowfax S 
She-la the Peeler S 
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 
Skeletonic T,S 
Slab Route S 
Smoke Filled Rooms T 
Snakes Slab S 
Something Nasty T 
Static Cling T 
Steel Your Face S 
Stego Slab S 
Summit Chimney T 
Take A Chance On Me S 
Tap Root T 
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 
Tempting the Guillotine T 
Tired of Talus T 
Top 40 T 
Twittin Shinkies T,S 
Two Sides of Purple, The T 
Uncertain  T 
Under the Boardwalk  S 
Unemployment Line T,S 
Unknown T 
Visible Panty Line T 
Wake of the Flood T 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Warsteiner S 
Welcome to Anexia T 
Willow Whip T 
Yogini S,TR 
Zig Zag S 

Tempting the Guillotine 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Chris Baird, FFA ?
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Allen Chaney on Oct 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Interesting movement utilizing edges, laybacks, hand jams, and rattly fingerlocks. Bring a red c4 and a yellow tcu - the placements will be obvious (and necessary).

    This route is listed as "unknown" 5.12b in the Moab area guide. Definitely worth doing! Will clean up with some traffic, there was 0 chalk and a fair amount of sand when I got on it.

    Location 

    Left of Pinhead and right of Potash is a mini-corner in jet black rock. Mostly bolted with bolted anchors.

    Protection 

    4 Bolts, #1 C4, yellow TCU, bolted anchors.


    Comments on Tempting the Guillotine Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Baird
    Feb 20, 2016

    I did the FA. We called it "Tempting the Guillotine" because of the big loose guillotine shaped feature you have to pull and stand on. I wasn't the first to free it. Don't know who got the FFA.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About