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Temporary Insanity 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13 [details]
FA: Brian McCray
Season: morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: Pnelson on Mar 23, 2016

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The upper bit of climbing on Temporary Insanity (5...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I'm just going to go ahead and say it– this is the best hard splitter at the NRG, and is defined by consistent 5.12 crack climbing, with maybe three v5-6-ish cruxes involving face holds thrown in to keep it challenging. Despite the guidebook's playing up the climb name, this is not an "insane" or unusually crazy/reckless climb. Just super good.

Start well to the left of the splitter, and climb maybe 35 feet of 5.9 slabby climbing to get to the base of the splitter. It's unprotected, but if you're on a hard climb like this you should not be falling on 5.9, right? This is the only runout section of the route.

At the base of the splitter you've got a lot of options for gear, before you bust into a 20-foot sequence that is the hardest section of the climb. From here, get a good kneebar/tree-wrap rest, before busting into a LOT more 5.12+ climbing involving underclings, pinches, and lots of great fingerlocks.

Location 

Just left of Munson Burner, five minutes upstream of the waterpipe cave, and maybe 20 minutes downstream of the walk-out.

Protection 

Two anchor bolts. Lots of finger pieces, stoppers, offsets, and maybe a few hand size pieces.


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