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Dana's Arch Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Man's Car T 
Beat Box S 
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 
Crimson Eye , The T 
Dana's Arch T,S 
Golden Road S 
Heaven's Gate T,S 
Jungle Fun S 
Tempituous S 
Wildest Dreams T 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Kerns, Greg Collum
Season: spring - fall
Page Views: 1,955
Submitted By: Orion Watson on Sep 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Rope solo heaven, Tempituous left, Jungle Fun righ...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


A three pitch sport climb left of Dana's Arch.

Pitch 1: 5.10 face and slab climbing.

Pitch 2: Climb the middle option of three routes leaving the belay following a bolted flake. follow the flake to a tough mantle leaving a corner. Airy face climbing leads to a tricky face move skirting a roof into the upper corner. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.11b

Pitch 3: An index classic. Out of this world knobs through very steep terrain highlight the last pitch. It's not over until the very end with a pumpy finish at the chains. 5.12a

Rock Climbing Photo: Beat Box 5.11+/5.12-
Beat Box 5.11+/5.12-


left of Dana's Arch and Right of Earwax Wall



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By kerwinl
Apr 4, 2016

Worth climbing for the last pitch alone. Well protected, and fun the whole way. There is a very old bolt on P3 about 3/4 of the way up that may concern some people, but it is only about 4' above a nice shiney new bolt with a clean fall.
By michal
From: Everett WA
May 12, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The last pitch is one of the best pitches of granite I have ever been on. Brilliant sustained climbing up overhung knobs with 200+ feet of air behind you, a must do, as is p2 Jungle Fun. Much more challenging in the sun.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jul 16, 2017

I had a blast climbing this route. My one complaint is that the location first bolt on the 3rd pitch makes no sense to me. It's not near the holds, increases rope drag, and runs the rope back to the belay in such a way that it's directly underneath you when you're doing the hardest moves. It's probably not a big deal, but it felt super likely that I'd catch it/land on it if I fell off the crux right there. It would be easy to solve all of these problems by moving it a few feet to the right.

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