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Tempi Moderni T 

Tempi Moderni 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 30 pitches, 3000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mariarcher & Jovane, 1982
Season: Summer
Page Views: 6
Submitted By: Ben Lepesant on Aug 11, 2017

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David Lama on Tempi Moderni (c) B. Lepesant

Description 

One of the greatest climbs in the Alps. The hardest pitch is the first, but people get lost and tired towards the end, when 5.10+ face climbing with little gear demands stamina. The only not-so-great pitch is the one after the big ledge. It is possible to bivy on this ledge. Bring comfy shoes and don't underestimate the "easy" pitches. From the top, it takes 15 minutes to the cable car, which typically runs until 4 PM.

Location 

A short scramble (5.2) leads to the 5.11 crux pitch. If you miss the cable car, it is a long walk back down to the car, first over the glacier, then the ski slope/rock, and then the road...

Protection 

nuts and a rack of cams, plenty of slings&kevlar for threads, as well as a couple quickdraws.


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