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Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: ?Pat Goodman
Page Views: 2,096
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Hard, crimpy. This is a fantastic problem with super movement. It starts on a huge jug and follows to horrible finger slots- The end is desparate slapping of slopers to a nice crimper at the top. About 15 moves total of difficult climbing. It has only seen a couple of sends.



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By David Lloyd
Aug 6, 2004

A map to tempest is in Davin's Vedauwoo bouldering guidebook. Ashley Lloyd recently did a female ascent.
By Aaron Love
Jul 28, 2005

Diplomatic yet hardcore. Quintessential D. Lloyd. Thanks for the clarity.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 16, 2005

This route is more like V8
May 9, 2006
rating: V9 7C

This problem is down and to the right of the three sisters amphitheatre (Slit, Slat, and Slut). To get to it, start by parking at the west end of The Nautilus, by the latrine. Follow the trail that meanders along the south side of The Nautilus. Keep looking to your left(north), and about even with the east(right) side of Teds Trot Block (the large boulder on top of The Nautilus containing Finally), you will see a boulder right off the trail with some chalked up inclusions about half way up it's east side (this is a problem called The Nest(V9?), which has seen maybe only one ascent). This boulder is the only one that fits this description, it should be pretty obvious. It is right accross from the long cracked boulder on the right(south) side of the trail. Anyway, walk past The Nest and up into the boulders. As soon as you can cut left, do so, and locate the slabby boulder with two aspens about four feet apart leaning against it and a little stack of rocks between them. This should be straight ahead and a little to the left about twenty feet away. Scramble up this boulder and head right(north) into the cave formed by stacked boulders. The Tempest will be directly on your left as you walk through this cave. It is a ten foot traversing rail at the base of a roof, and it should be chalked up. At the end of the rail, traverse around the corner and up to the top of the boulder. It looks a lot like Tilt at the 420 boulders up Poudre Canyon. Not the prettiest or proudest looking problem, but the movement is fantastic. Bring a couple of pads, the landing isn't real flat.

When you head right and into the cave where The Tempest is, if you instead head straight and into the cave straight ahead about twenty feet away, you will find Lucky You, which is a 5.12 offwidth problem, on the right side. For this one, start low on fists/hands and just drop off when the crack meets the other boulder.
By helk0003
Nov 2, 2006

Consensus over the last season has been V8, a few new good edges have materialized over the lip as well as some better feet from some overzealous "brushing". Please avoid using anthing but soft nylon brushes on established problems at Vedauwoo as the rock is pretty crystaly and tends to be quite easy to modify if you use coarse metal brushes or pound on the rock with the tip of a brush.
By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 4, 2007

FA: Pat Goodman

V8 or so with the new beta, but V9 or so with pat's original beta. Was V9/10. Don't f-up the rock metal please.

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