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The Whale
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Bound in Blood S 
Captain, The S 
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Honeymoon Down Under S 
Just Happens S 
Mister MIA S 
Never Ever Slab, The TR 
Plunge, The S 
Red Venus S 
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 
Tempest Toast S 
Thin Line, The S 
Undulating Dingo S 
Virgin Bolters S 
Whale Rider S 

Tempest Toast 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris, and Mike Heinrichs, September 2004
Page Views: 1,763
Submitted By: Livia on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Lee Rittenmeyer on Tempest Toast.

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


From the guidebook: Another great moderate. Climb a slab to a finishing headwall.


From guidebook: Reach the face by hiking south from where the north cliff access trail reaches the cliff. Hike along the cliff-base until the trail crosses a low angle slab shaded by a large juniper tree.

Routes #7 to #11 were described as: below a clean slab composed of two different sandstone layers.

Other notes: This route is the 11th developed route on the Whale and number #11 in the guidebook.

Addendum: there is a crux move near the top that will be harder for shorter climbers.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Per Paul Vervalin: the anchor bolts have been moved up. It is now ~110'.

Photos of Tempest Toast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gabby following Tempest Toast.
Gabby following Tempest Toast.
Rock Climbing Photo: Diana leading near the short leftward traverse at ...
Diana leading near the short leftward traverse at ...

Comments on Tempest Toast Add Comment
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By Kevin Craig
Apr 2, 2008

A bit tougher and more interesting than Whale Rider. I'd give TT a 7 and WR a 6.
By Paul Vervalin
Oct 19, 2014

WARNING!!! The anchor bolts have been moved up on this route. It is no longer an 80' route. Probably closer to 105' - 110'. A 60m rope will leave you 5-10 feet short of the bottom depending on rope stretch. Not a bad down climb but it would suck to fall that last 5 feet or so if you rapped off the end of your rope.
By Cody E
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 4, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just like the description above - it's fun, moderate, slab climbing. Lots of great routes to the left and right as well. Solid anchors atop.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 27, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Nice route, but the first bolt is 25 feet off the ground. A slip before clipping the first bolt would possibly be an ankle breaker due to ledges. Not too difficult, but the grit on the rock or a breaking hold could cause an unexpected fall.
By David Ott 1
Oct 24, 2016

I climbed this route today. The pictures from other users are accurate. This is a six bolt route The fifth bolt up is loose. The hanger and bolt spin. This route breaks left and was a typical slab route with one interesting move near the 5th bolt as you traverse left. It is a little higher (but barley), and I had no problem with my 60 meter rope.

Update. There a about five routes I encountered that had loose nuts. I tightened all of them. If you climb here be sure and have your nut tool to tighten up things.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down.
Looking down.

Rock Climbing Photo: You can see it breaks left from the bottom. 6 bolt...
You can see it breaks left from the bottom. 6 bolts though Rock Climbing Colorado book says 5.

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