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Tellin' Charming Lies Between Thunder Thighs 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: BBQ
Season: All. Morning sun. Afternoon shade.
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: BBQ on Jun 2, 2017

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Description 

Flattery might get you everything you want in life, but I refuse to lie. This is a two star climb. It is the kind of climb that is cool simply because it brags about how uncool it is. Some of you will love it, some of you will hate it. Haters might as well throw bombs, I no longer care at this point. As a developer in Spearfish Canyon, trolls constantly stabbing me in the back, have made me grow a thick skin...and all I will say is...hate this route as much as you want...because I plan on climbing it a lot...and I would rather you not be there when I do. But seriously, and in all sincerity, those of you who like the five ten classic moves of The Roach, will probably dig this climb too. Just be warned! The route is centered on a panel of rock between two dirty cracks. So think about it, even though side pulls adorn both sides of the route, there is very little point in looking for something to stuff your hand into, because you might just lose your watch.

A ROUTE THAT DEMANDS YOU PULL ON POCKETS INSTEAD OF YOUR PUD!

Pocket moves are found in abundance on this two star wonder. Oddly enough, there are two finger pockets on this route that would be super classic on a steep five twelve. However, the slabby, big feet moves seem to do most of the route's pockets little justice, since most of the moves involve long reaches to decent holds with movement that is fluid and a bit more fun than one would expect. In truth, about half the moves are nothing to write home about, but creative climbers can probably string together a couple of contrived variations in order to get a good warm-up in. The climbing is geared more towards working out than committing your crushing juice to. A good crux emerges when the route starts to boogie its flabby slab to the left and the climber gets one really sick hand jam before committing to hairy moves above the last bolt to the anchors. Like every fat chick joke, this route is worth telling at least once...until the civilized human being in you realizes that body shaming is uncool and the big ones get loved more than you think. Go on and get on it! You know you want to!

Location 

6th route from the left hand side of The Blowin' Kisses Wall. This climb is one of two variations of a bolt line just to the left of a short, three bolt climb known as Kim Gnardashian.

Protection 

9 bolts. Big ugly sport anchors.


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