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Tell-Tale Heart 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 8,800
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Dylan crushing.

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  • Description 

    This route begins just right of arete, at the obvious crack system. Climb up the fun crack to a nice rest, then continue up and right into the dihedral. The crux of this route involves climbing up into and over the bulge to jugs. There seem to be a couple different ways of approaching this section, so fight off the pump and enjoy yourself on this solid climb.


    Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.

    Photos of Tell-Tale Heart Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: D. Bear.
    D. Bear.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Not the way to do the crux.
    Not the way to do the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Michal gettin' jugs at the roof on his first redpo...
    Michal gettin' jugs at the roof on his first redpo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Michal mid-crux at the roof.  Photo: Nick Parsonne...
    Michal mid-crux at the roof. Photo: Nick Parsonne...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Through the business.
    Through the business.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Almost through the crux.
    Almost through the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux.
    The crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux.
    Starting the crux.

    Comments on Tell-Tale Heart Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 1, 2015
    By Peter Franzen
    General Admin
    From: Phoenix, AZ
    Jan 1, 2001

    This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jan 1, 2001
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Re: Pete Franzen's comment.

    I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out.
    By Joe Collins
    Jun 4, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip.

    hard 12b.
    By TBD
    Jul 13, 2003

    Tricky and powerful crux. Very fun moves.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 10, 2004

    Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you.
    By Danny dubsack
    Jul 4, 2006

    Tricky and powerful. Made me feel like a weakling. So good!
    By Jason Price
    May 15, 2007
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Great route. Benchmark 12a.
    By Aeon Aki
    Aug 1, 2007

    "Overhung, powerful, and sustained."
    By Keith H. North
    From: Englewood, CO
    May 28, 2011

    Hey, left my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you have it, please call me 303-359-6831.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    May 31, 2011

    The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this?
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 2, 2011

    Great Route, although I wouldn't give it four stars. It was a bit polished and fairly juggy with the exception of the crux section. It's a hard onsight too without having any beta, the heavily chalked holds split at the crux and can be a bit deceptive. Super fun though.... I don't think you can compare to Discipline, The Shaft, or Joy Ride which are all true 4 star 12b's in the area. Get on them if you haven't!!!!
    By Eric Carlos
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    May 22, 2012
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 10, 2012

    Okay, I take back my comment I put up a year ago about this route not being four stars. It's definitely fun, and the most exciting finish going right on Nevermore makes it even better.... Get after it....
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Jun 25, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Classic route in my opinion though a bit polished. I think that's to be expected though in Boulder Canyon. The crux moves are pretty devious if you end up getting suckered into moving too high into the corner under the roof. Also a note on the anchor - there are not cold shuts, only chains at the top of this route currently. 8 bolts, plus two for the anchor.

    The moves at the top are a bit... peculiar. My partner and I both went straight up, not right, by using a bit of dynamic force. There are some holds there to use.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 11, 2014
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 1, 2015

    This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag.

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