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Telegraph Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 4,565
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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BETA PHOTO: Snowshed Wall, east end.

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Telegraph Crack starts with a small roof move and contains fingers to large hands moves between stances.

This climb looks like a pile from a distance, but is actually quite fun to climb with its mixture of jams. A fun moderate option.


If you are headed up to the access gully on the East side of Snowshed (to access climbs like Nova Express, etc.), this climb will be the varied crack splitting a north-facing wall.


medium nuts - small/medium cams to 3". Rap anchor at top.

Photos of Telegraph Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Early season sending.
Early season sending.
Rock Climbing Photo: Telegraph Crack.
BETA PHOTO: Telegraph Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seen from Hwy 40
BETA PHOTO: Seen from Hwy 40
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off telegraph crack at sunset. A fun, vari...
Rapping off telegraph crack at sunset. A fun, vari...

Comments on Telegraph Crack Add Comment
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By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a pretty cool climb. At first glance it looks quite easy, but it's more technical than it looks. You certainly need to be confident with hand and foot jams. For me the crux was about 3/4 of the way up, the crack flares, there's not much for the feet, and what you hope to be bomber horizontals above are rather rounded. To me, solid 5.8. Protects well.
The rap from the top anchor is about 85 feet.
By Spandex Jesionek
From: East Bay, CA
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lots and lots of jams with a few fists every so often and high feet. There are many stances for placing high-reach pro. A BD #4 comes into play lower down, and the wide section higher up will use up a .5 or .75 in a slot if you only have one #4. Descend on rap rings at top next to good-looking manzanita, then run up Mole's Corner just to the right for extra fun. Then walk a little down for Nova Express, and then fifteen feet more for Farewell to Arms. Ah, Snowshed.
By Tatiana C
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Really fun climb and a solid warm-up route. The move in the middle of the climb where most people (taller guys) seemed to mantel onto their left leg form the right side of the crack, I approached from the left side of the crack and jammed straight in. Felt more secure that way.

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