|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Keith Lober March 2002|
|Submitted By:||SammyHagar on May 13, 2013|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
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By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 3, 2013
A really good route, even for the bolts. The face climbing is ok, but the first pitch hand crack is a lot of fun and you get to climb the cave pitch of Tunnel Vision. The route is climbed in 6 pitches, 4 pitches to get to the spelunking pitch and 2 pitches to top out as for Tunnel Vision. I skipped the 3rd belay station in the middle of the bolt ladder and went straight to the huge ledge where the cave is (we used a 70m rope).
P1: The base was easy enough to find, follow the wall to the right of the base of Tunnel Vision and keep an eye out for bolts, you should be able to see them. Follow the bolts and move to a great finger crack and climb up to the huge ledge where there is a bolt and cordelette slung through a huge hole for your anchor.
P2: Climb up the chimney in the far back of the ledge and move upwards through a chockstone to another chimney, where it meets up with Tunnel Vision. Climb up and keep to your left where you should see 2 bolts. If you go out to the right after the second chimney and see the slings, you are on Tunnel Vision.
P3: Follow the bolts leading out to the left and up the face. Finding the 2nd/3rd bolt took a minute or 2, I think I placed a piece between them while looking around. Keep following bolts and you will find another set of bolts for anchors.
P4: More bolts will eventually lead to the big ledge of Tunnel Vision where there is a big cave.
P5: I was glad to climb this section of Tunnel Vision and upgraded this climb from 2 to 3 stars. We took the path with the most chalk marked with 2 hand prints. Although the pro is rare, it is quite secure. Great nut placement before the slippery section. Up a bit higher through a short crack to a belay ledge.
P6: Follow the hand crack and keeping to your left is probably best, as we decided to go straight up the face to a higher topout and the pro was hard to find.
I think I may like this climb better than Tunnel Vision, as the first pitch was actually kind of fun (although a bit steep compared to the rest of the climb), the second pitch crack was enjoyable, and the tunnel pitch of Tunnel Vision was a treat.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We had a blast on this route today! It was a worthwhile adventure to check it out.
(The pitch lengths below are approximate and to the best of my recollection...if anyone finds that I was way off anywhere, please update with better info.)
P1 ~75ft 5.9+ The first pitch starts things off with a bang: three or four athletic sport sequences in a row with well-placed bolts(and the option to put a little gear in between a few of them if you want to). This section becomes quite pumpy right off the deck so you may want to leave your pack and any big gear with your second; you can send down a haul loop from the belay ledge to spare your second the extra weight, too. (I placed a few pieces between a BD .4- #1 cam). After the bolts the grade eases off to 5.6ish. The crack mentioned above is a only a short one, off to the right side between the last few bolts; it yielded a few sweet finger locks. I was looking for a more prominent feature from the route description above....wondered if I missed something?
P2 ~120ft 5.4 Although the easiest pitch of the route, still a worthwhile one. Climbs a cool, heavily featured chimney, slithers behind a chockstone, then enters into another good chimney ending at a bolted belay. I think a 5.5 leader would feel about right leading this pitch but without consider it a total gimme.
P3 ~100ft 5.7 Once you step onto the face and clip the first bolt, head left toward the right facing crack and follow it, placing gear at will. Just before it peters out, cross left onto the face toward your second bolt. Two or three more bolts get you to the next bolted belay. The bolt above the belay is the start of P4.
P4 ~150ft 5.5 More bolts and face take you past a bolted belay (skip this)to the cave ledge on Tunnel Vision. Build a gear belay here. (You will have considerable rope drag on the next pitch if you stop at the bolted belay.)
P5 ~120ft 5.6 You are now joining Tunnel Vision route. Best pitch of the day! Enter the chimney, clip the fixed sling a few moves up and/or place a big nut or two (I found two good hex placements on the right, mitigating any sense of runout) on the way up to a chockstone. Once atop the chockstone, traverse left across the smooth face, (you can place a nice #4 once you move about 10ft over), then a few more moves up the smooth face toward the gully system on your left. I wasn't sure whether to stay on the face and go straight up a few more moves or just traverse directly left over to gully then up the crack. Either way seems like it would work and give about the same amount of rope drag. Continue up the fun vertical crack (not the leaning one you see further left) and belay at comfortable stance below the roof. (A few places to choose from depending on gear you have left to build anchor).
P6 ~150ft 5.7 Pull the roof and trend slightly right, continue up the sparsely protected easy face to the top.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 14, 2014
|After the first half of the first pitch, which seemed incredibly burly and awkward even for "5.9+", the rest of the route was a delightful romp. Sherri's description above is pretty much dead on, except the third pitch is 115'. Anchor at the top of the first pitch is down to one bolt, which can be backed up -- there's also one hangerless stud and one empty hole.|