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The Citadel
Routes Sorted
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Biltong Rides Tornado S 
Blood Brother S 
Citadel of Hope, The S 
Fat Boys Skip School S 
Fun Planet S 
Funk Soul Brother S 
Paladin S 
Right About Now S 
Tel Aviv Miracle S 
West of Hell S 

Tel Aviv Miracle 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Collins, 1991
Season: Cold
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Nov 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The route

Description 

If I were from Boston, I'd describe this route as being wicked awesome. Since I'm not, I'll just say that it's a fantastic, sustained pitch on some great stone.

Follow good, but spaced, crimps and pockets up the beautiful pink and purple streak. I felt that the crux proper was going from bolt 3-4 and involved a difficult cross through move from a good side pull to a sinker 2-finger pocket. However, I felt there was no real 'easy' move on the entire route.

Rest as well as you can between bolts 5-6, because there's a stout boulder problem to reach the chains over the bulge, which will result in some BIG air if you blow it.

The 2015 Bechtel guide lists this as 12b, and I think that could be fair if you're tall and it's cold conditions. But at 5'7" it felt much harder to me than any 12b I've done in the Lander area. Let's call it "short guy/girl 12c" and let consensus take care of the rest.

Location 

Starts just to the (climbers) right of a small tree, in-between "Right About Now" and "Paladin".

Protection 

6 bolts


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