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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
Season: warm and sunny all year
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2015

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  • Description 

    A really cool move at the crux does something to make up for the otherwise unremarkable climbing and some poor rock.

    Climb up easy moves to a left-leaning, overhanging (seriously overhanging), wide crack with an edge to it. Wind up and head out and left on huge holds though what climbs much like a roof. This cool 5.9 crux makes the route worth doing, but it would otherwise be completely unremarkable and maybe 5.6. The route may be harder for very short people, as the span to the good hold is a bit of a reach and the intermediate holds would not be very good.

    Continue to climb up to the ledge and then over the top or traverse to the left to the anchor on Skip 'n' Go Naked.


    This is the obtuse corner 10' right of Skip and Go Naked. 2 shades of rock make clear the corner in question. If it is spring, a large gathering of (harmless) box elder bugs may be on the thing. I was able to climb right bpast the swarm with out them taking off until I kicked the rock next to them.


    Small gear is flakes that may not hold down low, then a few random bits. Crux could PERHAPS be protected by a very wide piece in a flaky crack.
    To descend, go over the the tree anchor above Skip and Go Naked.
    Note: This would be a bad route to fall on as a second as well.

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