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Ashtar Roof TR 
Bootleg Crack 
Contest Special TR 
Entertainer, The TR 
Five Niner 
Hugs and Pinches 
In the Picture 
Island Crack TR 
Middle of the Road Madness 


Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
Page Views: 932
Submitted By: Tyler Logan on Mar 13, 2008

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Island main wall, showing the following: A. Ashta...


One of a dozen or so of the "old school" testpieces at Rubidoux, this problem, like its neighbors, has been severely damaged by paint--making it even more teflon-like in its slickness. Nevertheless, it is still possible for those who enjoy cranking on finger-wrenching crimps and using precise footwork. Both powerful and delicate, putting this problem on your Rubidoux circuit will help keep you primed and ready for those sick, improbable stopper moves you're likely to encounter out at Joshua Tree or Suicide. Once past the hard moves, it is possible to escape left (and down) or right and up the "In the Picture" finish.

So, where are the "new school" testpieces, one might ask? The answer is there really aren't any. Nevertheless, despite Rubidoux's hardest problems getting sent decades ago and receiving vague old-school bouldering grades (5.12+/B1+/etc.), some of these problems (Pink Bug, The Octopus, Flabob, to name a few) are probably among the most difficult of their kind anywhere, and they are very rarely done. Some have likely never been repeated.

For some interesting discussion of Rubidoux's hardest by actual old school Stonemasters, see the following link:
Where are today's dime cranking masters?


Fifteen feet left of Five Niner. Go up the improbable face on dark, slick rock.


crash pads

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By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Jan 3, 2014
rating: V3 6A

Pretty good thin slab.

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