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Teflon Technique 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Merill Bitter, et al, 1989
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The Teflons w/o lines

Description 

This is one nice climb, only 2 stars due to its shortness. It is on the east face of Challenge Buttress, and it climbs a smooth bulging face with 1 bolt on it. It climbs the left of this face, not utilizing the bolt. It is smooth with a couple of horizontal cracks and a nice hole to hook your hands on. This climb will always draw me back year after year, along with it's neighbor Touch of Teflon.

Protection 

2 chains atop the climb. As for the climb small tcu's would help and small nuts.


Photos of Teflon Technique Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1)  Teflon Technique  2)  Touch of Teflon  3)  Dai...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Teflon Technique 2) Touch of Teflon 3) Dai...

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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 16, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I'm not clear on the exact location of this route, but it seems to start right under a bush growing out of the face and then moves up and right along a ledge to the chains. The 5.9 climbing was very short, and there it seemed easy enough to protect. The ledge above was easy. We set up a TR and climbed to the left of Touch of Teflon and it was really fun and probably more difficult. There is a hidden undercling next to a finger-sized dimple that distinguish this route. We smeared across the face on an arm traverse and mantled up to the thin face above. Way fun!

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