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Happy Hour Crag
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Are We Not Men T,TR 
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Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
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Grins T,TR 
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Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: B. Hansen, R. Lietner, 1989
Page Views: 2,093
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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At the second bolt and crux.

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  • Description 

    This climb is pretty fun and quite technical.

    Start this climb up and right of Grins, just left of a series of short, right-facing dihedrals and pillars. Climb up some so-so rock to get to an arete with 4 bolts. Clip the first bolt and then work both sides of the arete. The multiple crux moves involve heel-hooking the arete and palm-smearing around it at times. The moves are more insecure than Last Laugh, in my opinion, but pretty fun!


    Per Brian Hansen: this was originally led with one bolt.

    4 QDs plus a few runners for the top. There is some distance between the bolts to be considered, but the route seems safe enough.

    This is a reasonable top-rope from the anchors up and right of the top of Grins. You may want to rap off instead of lowering, however.

    You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.

    Photos of Teetotaler Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carol clipping the second bolt.
    Carol clipping the second bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Amato edging up the arete.
    Mike Amato edging up the arete.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carol Kotchek starting into the crux.
    Carol Kotchek starting into the crux.

    Comments on Teetotaler Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tamas
    Sep 22, 2002

    It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT!
    By Matt Burns
    Feb 20, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Jun 4, 2014

    I thought the crux was a harder than 11a. It would be a difficult onsight as the holds aren't visible from your position as you enter the crux. Definitely take some small cams.
    By Brian Hansen
    From: West of Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2015

    Originally led with one bolt.

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