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Teeny Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Schneider
Page Views: 4,557
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Chris fighting the pump on Teeny Face

Description 

Halfway up the second pitch of Insuhlation, traverse straight left on good holds to a short, right-facing corner. Make a reach to a huge horizontal, then climb the face (crux) straight to the pine tree belay station.

Most people would consider this to be a variation to Insuhlation rather than a separate route, but who cares; the climbing is great.

Location 

Go right past the High Exposure buttress to the start of Insuhlation.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.


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Rock Climbing Photo: teeny face
teeny face
Rock Climbing Photo: Teeny Face
Teeny Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Simon protecting the roof
Simon protecting the roof

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By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Sep 14, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
Bee/hornet nest in the belay tree / rap station. They are pretty civilized but be careful.
By gtluke
Sep 26, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
@cjdrover those are honey bees. Harmless. But yes, there are honey bees in the belay/rap tree.
By Michael Schneider
Apr 26, 2014

It is a whole route. From the ground, boulder up the face of the flake to the ledge. Continue up yellowish face through the double overhang to the stance follow shallow corner right to the steep face. Make the reach to the horizontal, and climb the clean boulder problem-like face.

This was very 80’s three or four pieces of gear but always at the hard bits. With today’s small cams it must be G/PG.
By Eugene Kwan
Jun 3, 2014

One of the best routes at the gunks. Not sure why it's not a classic. A yellow camalot is very useful after the second crux. Bring extra small cams. Can descend with one 60 m rope with two rappels.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very beautiful face climbing.
By frank minunni
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 12, 2015

I remember doing this thing with Patty Matteson around 82 or 83 after doing insuhlation. Both are really good.
By Systematic
Oct 31, 2016

It's not a classic because the start is poorly protected 5.4 climbing and the good stuff is high up. It's a great route.
Best done going up the middle roof, closest to the arete, at a left facing notch. This keeps the grade more consistent and the line more independent of Insuhlation.

  • *Gear beta**

Small cams from #00 to #1 metolius + green alien
#2 camalot bomber for the high crux... looks like a long ride.
By artem Vasilyev
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

X/R rated start for about 30-40 feet if you lack a truly large cam (which pretty much everybody does at the gunks) - not bad but definitely don't slip. Found my first solid piece of gear at the end of the first pitch (5.4). Link the pitches.

Great gear at both cruxy bits on the face, bring your c3's and brassies. Bomber #2 protects the high crux - if you mess up the beta get ready for some great air-time. Amazing face climb, really enjoyed it.

Anchor for second rappel is super old and crappy - would recommend just doing one rappel if you have a single 70m.
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Sep 14, 2017

There is a decent #4 placement halfway up the first pitch. That said, it's 5.4 and if you are contemplating leading the 5.10a above the 5.4 should not be an issue. Overall a great route, but just link the pitches.

A standard 70 m rope will just barely not make it for the rap. If you have a 70 on the longer side... maybe. Ours did.

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