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Teeny Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Schneider
Page Views: 3,902
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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teeny face


Halfway up the second pitch of Insuhlation, traverse straight left on good holds to a short, right-facing corner. Make a reach to a huge horizontal, then climb the face (crux) straight to the pine tree belay station.

Most people would consider this to be a variation to Insuhlation rather than a separate route, but who cares; the climbing is great.


Go right past the High Exposure buttress to the start of Insuhlation.


Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos of Teeny Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Teeny Face
Teeny Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris fighting the pump on Teeny Face
Chris fighting the pump on Teeny Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Simon protecting the roof
Simon protecting the roof

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By Michael Schneider
Apr 26, 2014

It is a whole route. From the ground, boulder up the face of the flake to the ledge. Continue up yellowish face through the double overhang to the stance follow shallow corner right to the steep face. Make the reach to the horizontal, and climb the clean boulder problem-like face.

This was very 80’s three or four pieces of gear but always at the hard bits. With today’s small cams it must be G/PG.
By Eugene Kwan
Jun 3, 2014

One of the best routes at the gunks. Not sure why it's not a classic. A yellow camalot is very useful after the second crux. Bring extra small cams. Can descend with one 60 m rope with two rappels.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very beautiful face climbing.
By frank minunni
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 12, 2015

I remember doing this thing with Patty Matteson around 82 or 83 after doing insuhlation. Both are really good.
By Systematic
Oct 31, 2016

It's not a classic because the start is poorly protected 5.4 climbing and the good stuff is high up. It's a great route.
Best done going up the middle roof, closest to the arete, at a left facing notch. This keeps the grade more consistent and the line more independent of Insuhlation.

  • *Gear beta**

Small cams from #00 to #1 metolius + green alien
#2 camalot bomber for the high crux... looks like a long ride.

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