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Teenage Lobotomy T 

Teenage Lobotomy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ted Doughty and Paul Dowdy
Page Views: 111
Submitted By: Eric M Parks on Sep 5, 2016

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I climbed the very right side of patina. If you tr...

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Description 

Great face climb up a cracked patina wall to a large ledge, about 120 feet. Start below the sole bolt on the right and then traverse left into the cracked patina. After surmounting the ledge walk to the back right corner and climb two parallel outward flaring cracks to the top, about 30 feet.

Location 

Route starts below the solitary bolt on the right. Double rope rappel gets you down to the ground from the anchors.

Protection 

There is one bolt at the start of the face climb but the remainder of the face is well protected with stoppers and nuts. Bring medium sized C4s for the flaring cracks at the top. Three "bolt" anchor with webbing and rap ring. At time of writing the anchor had one new Fixe Wedge bolt and two questionable, old 1/4" compression bolts.


Photos of Teenage Lobotomy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rockaway beach and Teenage Lobotomy
Rockaway beach and Teenage Lobotomy
Rock Climbing Photo: Byron at the start. You clip a bolt before making ...
Byron at the start. You clip a bolt before making ...

Comments on Teenage Lobotomy Add Comment
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By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Nov 14, 2016

This route is very fun with all the patina on it. The start is harder than 5.8. More like 5.10a as long as your at least 5'8" tall. I climbed straight up from the bolt and found protecting the route to be very sparse for the first 20' past the bolt (think ground fall). Maybe with small wires or RP's it would protect ok. After that protection gets good. There is a nice 2 bolt anchor with rap rings at 100'.

Rock quality is really good. This is a fun route but is more like 5.10a R.

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