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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 4,967
Submitted By: KipHenrie on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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The "triple overhangs" of hard rock wall...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


This is another AF endurance route. This climb works you from the first move with tricky feet and sidepulls on an overhang. It has 3 distinct sections or bulges so don't dawdle. You do get 2 good rests. Each bulge has its own crux. The first bulge is the start. The second bulge is in the middle with sloping holds. The third has a very cool left traversing bump move. There are some eye opening big moves on the whole climb. The guidebook says 11d/12a. I believe it is a worthy 12a.


In the Hard Rock area this climb is the third from the left. It starts on sidepulls under the overhang. There is a permanent draw on the first bolt.


Bolts to anchors. Top has biners but go prepared. 11-12 draws.

Photos of Teeanova Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The starting alcove
The starting alcove

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 2, 2017
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

AF classic. Definitely feels on the 12a side. All of the moves are there. The most difficult part is how many sucker, chalked up pockets there are. This made it seem hard to stay on route. Hard onsight but whoa what a satisfying route.
By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

12a so sick
By Bad Sock Puppet
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A very tough onsight indeed. It's really easy to miss a lot of the better holds for some not so great holds due to the amount of chalk marks on the wall. Each roof had it's own crux, but the hardest part seemed to be pulling over the second roof. Once you're over that, then you have a great rest that is hands free. This route is more overhung then it looks, and is nothing but big move after big move. A few sketchy clips with the chance of hitting the tree if you take a big fall. Perhaps this was 11.d back in the day, but a few jugs have been broken off, some fairly recently. Bring your balls on this one. AF classic!!!
By bsmoot
Nov 17, 2009

"but a few jugs have been broken off"

This is true, shortly after this route was put up, a major flake broke off...the one you clip the first bolt from. Later, another smaller, but key hold broke off down low, so yes! the start is much harder.
By John Rosner
From: Hopkins, MN
Jul 29, 2011

Awesome, Awesome route. Maybe a 12 move at the top and the very beginning, but I think the rating of 12 is deserved because of the length and amount of cruxy moves. Again great climb!
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There are two crucial holds on this climb that look like they are going to break off soon and fall down right into the walk way (read: where a lot of people are). The first is the block with cracks in it to the left of the bolt just after the first bulge. This entire block is very chalked up and very loose. You can wiggle the block back and forth... and by the extent of the chalk on it... I'd say just about everyone chooses to use it. The second loose hold is up high just before pulling the last bulge before the chains. This is again a crucial pocket (judging by the amount of chalk on it) that is part of a loose block with a crack down the side of it. Just like the lower one, you can see the crack widen (and the block move out) when the pocket is weighted.
If these holds were to break off (especially the top hold) the route would most likely get a bunch harder. From a safety point of view... both of these blocks are big enough and high enough of the ground that they would undoubtedly kill somebody/belayer at the base if it struck them. These blocks are directly above the main path and sitting area on that side of hard rock.
The nature of these blocks with the obvious cracks in them make it so it would be very easy to reinforce them with glue... These holds can be easily reinforced by filling the back of the cracks with glue.... Reinforcing the blocks in this way will keep the glue hidden and unseen. The other option is to use a bar and knock the loose stuff off when no one is around. THis will however significantly increase the grade of the climb and will alter the classic fluid motion of this climb.

I am more than willing to do the gluing but was wondering if I should get the permission of the first acensionist or whoever else.
By bsmoot
Jul 24, 2012

James, gluing that hold would be a great service...thanks!
By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jul 26, 2012

Solid 12a, just milk the 2 good rests and you will send, before the last roof move way right to a perfect ledge with a nice jug that looks like an ear.
By utfreeclimber
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 6, 2012

I just climbed this route yesterday and pulled that really nice hold from the top. It was an onsight attempt and luckily no one was hurt but that key hold is now gone. That loose block in the middle is still somehow clinging on but moves like crazy and seems pretty key to the route. I think everyone uses it and that it's gonna fall soon. It should be pulled from the wall.
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

utfreeclimber, glad to hear that no one got hurt. I just knew that these holds were going to come down soon. The real unfortunate thing is that I was actually going to go glue those two holds this coming saturday. Looks like I am a little late. Were you able to figure out a new sequence through that final roof? I wonder if it will still go at 12a? Unfortunately I did not get the onsight either, now I am hoping that it is within my reach to get the redpoint with the broken hold and all.
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 13, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Went back and got this climb... The bottom loose block is still there... but yes indeed, the block with the pocket in it just below the third roof is now on the ground somewhere (really glad its not in somebody's head). It doesn't change the grade but the moves are now harder up there. That pocket was a nice rest before pulling that final roof. I had to figure out some new beta that was definitely harder. Anyway, this is an amazing climb. There are some really big moves in between pockets, awesome fluid movement, endurance climbing with multiple cruxes. This seemed harder for me than several of the other 12a's in the canyon but not hard enough to be 12b. I think the opening 10 to 15 feet is a v4 boulder problem and the rest is sustained 11 climbing to the chains with a v3 redpoint crux higher up. As has been said, there is an awesome rest just after the second bulge.
By zenetopia
May 13, 2013

Just got on this for the first time on 5/11/13: what a solidly fun route. Although i didn't notice any loose blocks (perhaps i was just trying to keep focused and not to 'fright' myself off the route - scary on your very first go)... the block James Yate pulled off, i never knew of, and thought it was really solid at 12a....
By Tom Gnyra
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Good route. Dogged it a bit today to figure out the moves (first go, may not have time to try it again on this trip).

This is a rope eater though. I fell multiple times on the 2nd crux (worsening pockets to a sharp 2 finger and around a groove). Don't think i got it bang on for that but my rope has 2 meters less due to drag, core was showing. Was using long draws. Any advice?
By ferrells
Oct 31, 2015

Really needs a new bolt at the 2nd crux, if anyone has the motivation to do that. We would all appreciate it Im sure. Right now, it's a rusty half inch SMC. Be safe out there.
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Apr 30, 2017

This thing is climbing hard right now. Maybe it was a high gravity day.

That rusty spinning SMC hanger is still there. With permission whoever replaces it might be doing a service to move it down a foot or so. I know why it's there, don't want to give it away.. but heads up and pretty crap feet getting to the stance.
By Kes
From: Somerville, MA
May 16, 2017

There's a large rock toward the left in the final roof that was scarily loose. I started to use it as an undercling and it felt like it would easily rip out if I fully loaded it. The rock is about the size of a backpack and could kill someone if it fell.
By Ryan Arnold
Sep 2, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Area classic. Tough at 12a. Powerful one move boulder problem to the horn at the beginning, then pumpy 12a to the first rest, which is nearly no-hands. Then maybe 11c through the second roof if you hit the best holds, to a no-hands rest. I thought the top section was the easiest crux, maybe 11b with the right beta. On one of my attempts I got off route (too far right) and whipped onto that rusty spinner, added some excitement!

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