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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
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Bug Squad T 
Campsite Host Boulder 
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Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
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Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
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Ejector-Rejector TR 
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Etude For The Left Hand TR 
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Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
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Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Fourth of July Roof T 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
I'm Spartacus T 
In The Dark T 
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Jim Jam T 
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Joke T 
Kiai T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Murphy's Law 
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Nemo's Toad T,TR 
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Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
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Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
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Shotgun Willy  
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Stranded at Sea T 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
Twinkle Toes 
Unknown Crystal Slab 
Unknown Mantle 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
W.C. Fields T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Ted's Trot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody, and Andy Ryan, May, 1956 FFA: Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler, July, 1971
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Before the cruxy section.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This great route is a fairly long pitch for Vedauwoo, and has everything from chimneying to a nice fist/hand crack. Another excellent moderate on the Nautilus.

The climb follow the obvious chimney on the left side of Ted's Trot Block between Cornelius and Lower Slot Left. Climb a fun well protected chimney(I'm not kidding, it sews up with stoppers and aliens) to a big ledge. Above the ledge, climb another chimney with a fun hand crack in it to the small roof. Pull over the roof on bomber fist jams, and grunt up the dihedral to the top. The last 20 feet are the crux.

To descend, rap off the back of Ted's Trot block to the first big ledge. Walk back around this and squeeze down the worm hole - this puts you about 20 feet from your pack.


Stoppers, small to medium cams. Aliens make protecting the initial chimney easier. Save a 3.5 and a 3 camalot for the exit moves, and no wide pieces are needed despite what it looks like from the ground.

Photos of Ted's Trot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool move.
Cool move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating his next move.
Contemplating his next move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex resting in the sun.
Alex resting in the sun.
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot of me (Mike) getting in my second piece dur...
A shot of me (Mike) getting in my second piece dur...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Gram squeezing through the opening chimney ...
Andrew Gram squeezing through the opening chimney ...

Comments on Ted's Trot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Kullman
Sep 3, 2003

This is an excellent route with varied climbing and is a good way to get introduced to big cracks at Vedauwoo without needing any big gear (just a fist sized piece or two for the top). The crux moves under the roof and out onto the face are great fun, perfect fist jams. I agree with the comments about using Aliens (or equivalent) in the opening chimney moves, smaller gear is what you need. I lugged a #4.5 and #5 Camalot with me and they just got in the way.
By Paul Sampson
Jul 23, 2004

A fun climb with lots of variety.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Dec 18, 2009

Here's some at interesting FA information.

5.5 A1: done 18 May 1956 by Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody and Andy Ryan. "This route bears the remains of the bolting fanatics having at least 11 bolts in a route that has been done with one and for which three are very adequate."

5.7+: done July 1971 by Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler. Notes: "Need no bolts - protect with I-beam & nuts - start climb at bottom & do in 2 short pitches bottom chimney = 5.5"
By jake marlow
From: laramie
Jun 28, 2012

Chimneys kind of suck, but the last 20 feet on this route make it all worth it.
By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 21, 2017

Great climb! Bottom chimney is hard to protect but easy with good technique. I only found a red c3 and c4 useful. Top half is some of the funnest climbing I've done with stemming, jamming, and offwidthing all at the same time. Well-protected with 0.5-3. Roof is a little wide, but for most hand sizes, the jams are there. Used a 3 but would've felt better with the 4. Find solid hands however you choose, and go for a wild fun move to get your feet over the roof. Belay right after roof on gear, used 2s and a hex, and rap on bolts 40 feet straight back.

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