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(a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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Teddy Bear's Picnic 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 270'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Walan 1990
Page Views: 3,979
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Pitch 2

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Maybe three stars...

This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.

Pitch 1:
Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.
5.10c 100'

Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.
5.10 55'

Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to an anchor. The anchor is just above a huge partially detached flake/block that should be negotiated with care.
5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)

Rap the route in two single rope rappels.


right side of the wall just left of Honey Pot.


draws and a couple long slings.

Photos of Teddy Bear's Picnic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark finishing the first pitch of Teddy Bear's Pic...
Mark finishing the first pitch of Teddy Bear's Pic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Teddy Bear
Teddy Bear

Comments on Teddy Bear's Picnic Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Apr 14, 2006

I'm not sure of the actual length of this route but want to try leading it in one long pitch with a 70m. Think I'll make it?
By Bryson Slothower
May 18, 2006

I linked the 3 pitches with a 70m makes for a great pitch!
By stj
May 7, 2011

The second pitch (link-up of 2 and 3) is one of my favorites in the park. Similar to Revelation, but with some hideous exposure--a key foothold in the crux is right on the edge, where the face cuts away from underneath you. I love it! If it was more convenient, it would be a very popular pitch. I think the consensus rating of 10b seems about right; the first pitch is tough for the 10a it gets in the guidebook, but I don't think it is 10c. First pitch is sustained, insecure knob crawling. Many parties just do the first pitch, and miss out on the great rock above.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome route! Gets sun all morning in the winter. I'd like to try it as one pitch with a 70m. Would be great endurance training.
By another Chad
Oct 29, 2013

Linking the pitches, I back-cleaned several bolts and used slings on a lot of the clips and the rope drag was still bad. This is one I'd definitely recommend breaking into two pitches (at the first anchor).

By Pink Thunder
From: Lakewood
Sep 4, 2014

The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?
By another Chad
Sep 5, 2014

"The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?

You can get down Teddy Bear's Picnic with one rope but you'll have to make more than one rappel.

By Erik Keever
Mar 27, 2015

Finally did 2nd part after 3-4 times on the first pitch. The position is amazing!

If linking p2 and p3 into one, *definitely* bring a few sling draws. I didn't and the rope drag turned clipping and belaying my 2nd into their own workouts.
By Timmy Deez
From: Portland OR
Nov 20, 2015

Just tried to link this in one pitch!!
I failed due to rope drag and only linked P1&P2. Then pitched out P3 which was very fun exposure and easy climbing. prob. 10a

If your going to link all three do one of the 2
A. Be a comfortable climber and skip the anchor bolt of P1 and also skip the 1st bolt on P2
B. Tie in to two 70M lines and after the anchor of P1 (only clipping the line on the left) switch to your 2nd rope only, clipping that one into the new bolt line that is further to the right.

I am going to link them next time, it is a rad way to start the day!
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Apr 17, 2017

If you're going for the OS and get worried about the old SMC first two bolts in the huecos know the glue ins start above there. I would bring some alpine draws for the 1st pitch, bolt line doesn't quite follow the climbing line due to hollow rock. Would be nicer without drag of short sport draws.

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