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Tectonomagmatic T 
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Tectonomagmatic 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Law and Greg Barnes
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 27, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tectonomagmatic is a good approach pitch to Five Ten, You Wuss. It is a long face climb with some classic Tuolumne knob and slab climbing that is mostly well protected but also features some good runouts to keep you excited. Rated 10b in the guidebook, we thought it was pretty hard for the grade.

Start by climbing into the scoop, placing some gear and then clipping several bolts with some tricky and hard climbing about 1/3 up the pitch. Above, the difficulty eases as you continue clipping bolts. You finish at a ledge with a two bolt anchor down and right or a two bolt anchor up and left.

Location 

Left of Five Ten, You Wuss, this climb starts where a small, scooping ledge feature sits 10 feet above the start. This is easily surpassed and above you can place the first gear behind this feature and then above in a crack/flake feature before clipping the first of several bolts.

Protection 

9 draws, small to medium size cams and maybe some nuts.


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