Tecolote Cave Rock Climbing
A photographer traveling with pro climber Dani And...
The Tecolote Cave is like any other typical limestone cave except for the abundance of tufas, stalactites, tunnels, and other weird features. There are a few vertical climbs on the edges of the cave, but the most striking lines are the steep ones. Grades range from 5.10 to 5.14.
Follow the 4WD road past the Animas Wall until it drops down and rejoins the wash. From here continue for another 5 or 10 minutes and the cave will be obvious high up on the hillside to the right, somewhat obscured by trees. Just before coming directly below the cave, an obvious, well-traveled trail heads steeply up the hillside. All in all its probably 20-30 minutes from the Animas Wall. Expect direct sun even in the winter.
Climbing Season For the El Salto area.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Tecolote Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tecolote Cave
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tecolote Cave:
Nosferatus 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Tecolote Cave
Culo De Merlin 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a North America
: ... : Tecolote Cave
Start in the depths of the upper cave on the left wall. A few steep moves off the ground lead up to a tunnel-through section and some slick climbing up into the roof of the upper cave. Problematic to clean unless you back clean or have a follower. The route is kinda dirty and the actually climbing isnt that good, but the feature is pretty unique....[more] Browse More Classics in International
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 25, 2012
I am blown away that this cave only has a few routes listed here on mountain project. This cave is way larger than you would expect with loads of routes that are not listed. Currently(March 2012), there is a topo in the center of the cave laying on the big flat rock near the back. The little blip states on moutainproject states that there are routes here ranging from 5.10 to 5.14 which is a bit misleading. There is one 5.10d called Culo de Merlin(or something like that), a few routes in the 12a range in the lower cave and then mostly 5.13 for everything else. All of the routes in the main cave are super sick and severely overhanging on the craziest features. Be sure to check out La Violencia(13a) which has a violent horizontal dyno to a big stalagtite hanging down in the ceiling, Tecolote(13a)which is gymnastics roof climbing at it's best, and Huiratica(13b)which is steep, long enduro climbing on awesome features. There are also quite a few 13+'s and a few 5.14's with more development surely coming over the next few years. Overall, this crag is sick and you will not be dissapointed. If climbing on steep rock and the wildest features is your thing then the Tecolote Cave is the place for you. Enjoy!!!!
By Joel Schopp
Jan 12, 2016
The Mexican Rock Climbing Guide Book (North) lists 18 routes in the series of caves and has a small topo. The caves are really cool, though all the climbing listed is still in the 5.11b to 5.14a range. Really good quality routes that are worth the extra hike.
Note if the river is flowing you will have to cross a chest deep pool below the waterfall past Las Animas wall.