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Techweeny Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Completely Clueless T,S 
Crackula T 
Crankenstein S 

Techweeny Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007
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Techweeny Buttress taken from somewhere above the ...


The first large wall on the left as you descend into Echo Canyon.
If micro edges and clipping bolts are more your style, the clean face in the middle of the formation offers three sport routes.

The top of the formation is seen from the La Luz trail. Upon toping out on the formation follow a solid trail for 30 yards back to the La Luz.

Getting There 

From the crest parking lot start down the La Luz (0.5 miles). Once at the trail junction follow a faint climbers trail south into Echo Canyon.

Climbing Season

For the Echo Canyon area.

Weather station 1.0 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Techweeny Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Techweeny Buttress:
Crackula   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Techweeny Buttress

Featured Route For Techweeny Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Hein piecing together the on-sight!

Crankenstein 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  New Mexico : Sandia Mountains : ... : Techweeny Buttress
Awesome thin face climbing up the right side of Techweenie Buttress. At times, look around the right side to find hidden holds on the corner. The crux comes around bolt 5 and was, for me, trusting an improbable highstep. At the top, step left to the 2-bolt anchor above Completely Clueless. This climb was probably bolted on lead, but climbs like a sport climb now (no gear, just safely-spaced bolts).The old Hill Sandia guide shows an obscure 2nd pitch to this route, at 5.10c (on the topo) or 5.11 (in th...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Techweeny Buttress Add Comment
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By Will Vining
Apr 29, 2013
Does anyone have any information about the bolted lines around the corner from Crankenstien? I climbed one of them yesterday (the one on the least steep, most featured face). It was pretty awesome, and when I reached the anchors I discovered there was a second pitch :). It looks like there are at least two (maybe three) cool looking lines up the buttress around the corner from Crankenstien which could form a second pitch for this route.
By Mick S
From: Utah
May 3, 2013
Bolted by Dave Milford 10+ years ago. I can't remember the names, but I believe they are 5.10+/.11-.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
May 3, 2013
I sent a note to David M, asking if he had anything he'd like to post here about the routes.
By David Milford
Aug 31, 2013
Thanks Bill, Mick, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I will enter full route info for the 2 routes on the back side (East) of Techweenie soon. I only did the upper parts (what he is calling "pitch 2") these can be reached by dropping off the buttress to the East from the top, takes you right to the base of these routes. The bolted line on the very end of the arete is The Flesherizer, 5.11b. The bolted line (bring small - medium stoppers also for the top) a few feet to the right of that is Creature Feature 5.10a. Enjoy.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
May 6, 2014
As you walk right from Crankenstein:
The first climb on the face just right, with an obvious low old bolt is "Fear of Flying" described in the old Hill book, 5.8A4 (in 1981, anyway, who knows what a modern rating is).
To the right of that is a chossy-looking chimney (5.9+ in old Hill book).
Right of that is a newer bolted 2-pitch M.Beverly line I think he told me was called "Masterblaster". I've heard it's good but haven't climbed it.
I'm not sure where the 2 climbs D.Milford mentions that start half way up are in relation to MB's route.

Feel free to correct / update me, or contact Marc to sort it out.

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