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Technical Second 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 1,974
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Aug 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Before the crux traverse


The name for this route comes from the first ascentionist's use of a solo bely device (or so I heard.) The route starts just to the right of Trigger happy, up the steep corner to a blocky, shallow roof. Traverse to the right on good holds and then climb straight up the much bleaker looking face. There are some good crimps and good feet which are hard to make out from the ground (but not that good.) The crux comes just below the anchors, which for me included burling straight through some small crimps, but it's not too bad if you are not too pumped. There's probably a more efficient approach here so check out the route and let me know.


On the right side of Tripple corners (3 minutes left of Wiamea's left end) between trigger happy ( the left most bolt line in this section) and Perfectly Blunt.)


5 bolts to Lower Offs

Photos of Technical Second Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: on the easier first half of the climb
on the easier first half of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: using the little toe hold to go up to the last mov...
using the little toe hold to go up to the last mov...
Rock Climbing Photo: finishing out
finishing out
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom third of Technical Second
BETA PHOTO: The bottom third of Technical Second
Rock Climbing Photo: Technical Second starts up the left face, has a fu...
BETA PHOTO: Technical Second starts up the left face, has a fu...

Comments on Technical Second Add Comment
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 21, 2007

there is a non-burly way to do the top but most folks just stand there for a long time trying to figure it out then opt for the burl... some make it and some take the whipper...
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

I wish I could have figured out the non-burly way. I was one of the people that sat there for a while trying to figure it out and then pulled a crazy toe hook and hand foot match of some sort and felt relieved not to take the whipper... this climb didn't feel like any other of the rumney climbs I have done. It was worth doing, but I can't say I'll ever do it again on lead.
By NicoleKurth
From: Londonderry, NH
Jun 21, 2008

i think i did it the non-burly way... i think i did what btodd did and got a hand foot match but i didn't get a toe hook. I believe if you just take your time and do a bunch of balancy stand up moves the top is not that bad.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 8, 2008

I just reclimbed this one today so here is my two cents on the crux beta... for the frist time on this move i felt super solid and what i did was this:::

When i had my hands on the last good ledge/crack before the chains i got my right hand in a good spot and put my left upside down in a spot that would become a good undercling when i stood up... i got a high right foot on an edge and started standing up then got my left foot up to the ledge which made the undercling super solid at which point i got some good holds, stood up, and i was all "i think ill clip the chains now"...

Sorry if thats too much spray for you... take it or leave it, it worked well...
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jul 30, 2009

Lee the Flea and I did this route up until the corner ends in 1987. At the top of the corner I moved down to go far to the left and finish up the off width chimney of the Dike route. We called it Spiders in the faith, after all of the spider webs I had in my face while leading it. We rated it (5-8). I'm going to list this as a separate climb because it was done on trad gear.
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Jul 13, 2011

bring a long draw for the bolt on the top of the corner (bolt 4?). standard draws left beiner on the block, pressing the rope into the rock. kinda sketchy.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hard at the grade (5.10b), especially if you're trying to get the onsight.
By Russ Keane
Jul 26, 2017

Really great route. This section of wall has amazing rock quality. Quite slabby and orange. Kick-ass climb with variety and an elegant feel.

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