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Technical Knee-Highs 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,005
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 25, 2009

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Technical Knee-Highs


A more beefed up version of its neighbor , Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).

Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)


Technical Knee-Highs sits on the far north side of the buttress, just right of Non-Technical Church Socks


A large selection of draws, and a few slings. The upper anchor for this route is set back behind a bulge, long runners or a cordelette will help reduce rope drag and abrasion.

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By SMH Climber
From: Midvale, UT
May 5, 2014

If you climb this to the first set of anchors it is only 5.9 and a lot of fun.
By brucy
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick hanger rap bolt). Forward thinking- guys, leaving it like this!
By Casey M
Feb 15, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this to the first set of anchors (See Option 1 above). It wasn't particularly challenging, but it was a fun climb. Note that there are no chains attached as an anchor, just two side-by-side bolts. You'll likely need to leave some gear behind to get down safely unless you intend to continue to the top.
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Mar 21, 2016

As of March 2016 there are two Metolius rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, just below the roof. No need to leave gear, just rap off.

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