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Tecate Crunch
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Swiggum, Newsom |
Page Views: | 793 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 22, 2014 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A great attractive line but as the name implies there is some questionable rock on this route, as with most of the routes in this area. But it does seem to be cleaning up and deserves more than the one star found in the Lewis guide. The first pitch has great climbing and if not for a bit of hollow loosness here and there would be 3 stars. I found the crux was getting to the kinda high first bolt. Getting to the scond bolt was easy but a little run considering the rock but nothing broke on me. The third bolt came rather soon considering the previous 2. I climbed past it then clipped below my waste. A couple more bolts and fun climbing get you 2 a nice 2 bolt chain anchor. I can't speak for the second pitch, my partner wanted to continue on Grape Nuts to the left, but it looked cool above the anchor. Looked a bit run but easy to the first bolt and above the climbing looked a bit thiner than the first pitch but good.
2 raps from chain anchors with a 60. Rapping to the first from the second just made it, watch your ends.
I have to add that there are some poorly placed bolts on this pitch. The location is ok but boy are they crooked.
2 raps from chain anchors with a 60. Rapping to the first from the second just made it, watch your ends.
I have to add that there are some poorly placed bolts on this pitch. The location is ok but boy are they crooked.
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3 Comments