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Tears 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nate Adams
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: Nate Adams on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Dom high up on Tears.

Description 

Super fun!

[EDIT:] Tears climbs an excellent panel of smooth, clean gray limestone. The line begins with a crimpy crux getting off the ground. The line moves left to a great rest below an obvious detached flake. Move up to the flake, then traverse up & right to stem up the unfortunately positioned dihedral. Though obviously contrived, its possible to follow a line of holds left of the bolt line through this section to keep the climbing more aesthetic. Either way, arrive at a juggy, horizontal break. A few more fun moves lead to the chains.

Location 

There is a climber's trail just below Drill for the Thrill. This will branch right to the shady "North Wall". Tears is the third route.

See the topo for location.

Protection 

7 bolts.


Photos of Tears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The great rest below obvious flake.
The great rest below obvious flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kbird!
Kbird!
Rock Climbing Photo: Continuously cerebral climbing.
Continuously cerebral climbing.

Comments on Tears Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Rasmussen
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is OK. The bolts are kind of weirdly placed. They are not in line with the natural line (you may be looking at a 5+ foot fall when level with a bolt). That said, it is one of the better lines on the north face (at least that I have been on).
By RyanO
From: sunshine
Jun 21, 2010

Agreed, this is weird route (but good). I think the bolts are placed so that one could take the hard 11 line on left, (two bolts from the top) or the 9ish line on the right. I can definitely see how this could induce tears if preceded by blood and sweat ;)
By A. Bandos
Sep 6, 2015

I wish the bolts went four feet to the left of the current line and we call it 5.12 or four feet to the right so climbers understand [to] to in the corner system. Fun and solid movements until you are forced to go right in what seems to be a cop out. However if you are reading this description before you climb, at least you get a heads up.
By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2017

Going left at the headwall section seemed to be the natural line. Theses bolts could stand to be moved a couple feet left. Also, the way the second bolt was placed seemed unnecessary high. In short, poor bolting, great climbing.

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