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Tears of Joy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Rick Stockwell, Bob Bartlett (June, '77)
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 15, 2012

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Tears of Joy - North Face Apron of MCR

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a great one-pitch climb at the far right end of the North Face Apron. I found this to be one of the less frightening leads on the Apron with bolts right where you need them. The first crux comes between the first and second bolt in a section of golden polish. There is an optional belay at the third bolt, but it is better to just keep climbing. The forth bolt is damaged, either by rockfall or hammered, I can’t really tell (the first bolt on Cat Dancing is the same). You can still clip it however, and it’s good to extend this one with a runner. Traverse right and then climb up and right on easy but runout terrain. After the 5th bolt is another short crux and then more easy climbing to the anchor. You can rap with one 70m rope (one 60m rope might also work?) stopping at the intermediate rap anchor.


Bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Tears of Joy - North Face Apron of MCR
Tears of Joy - North Face Apron of MCR

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By Ryan K.
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

You can scramble up 3rd class from the left and place an offset cam in a pin scar before roping up. That's the only gear placement on the route, and it was comforting to have it in getting to the high first bolt. Don't fall between the 4th and 5th bolt!

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