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Tears of Gaia 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 24, 2012

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P1 of Tears of Gaia.

Description 

Ascends the wall just left of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff. Uncharacteristic of the other routes on the cliff, this one is a face climb.

P1 5.10b G: From the base of the chimney, climb out left on the wall, angling towards the arete to the left. Work up the arete, then back right and follow amazing incut jugs. At the top, step left, then up past two horizontal cracks. Make a big move to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.9 G: Go straight up (bolt), then move left to cracks. Follow these to a fixed anchor. 50'

Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.

Location 

At the base of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff.

Protection 

P1: Draws only. P2: small rack to 1".


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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jul 12, 2015

I climbed it last year and didn't notice much if any loose rock. This route is very atypical for the Adirondacks. And also very fun. Nice find Jim!
By Mark Bealor Saranac Lake NY
Oct 1, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A great first pitch, perfectly bolted, and no loose rock. Steep and gymnastic in the middle-felt like a Gunks route. The second pitch is also good, with an interesting crux moving left.