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Valley Massif
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Tea Grinder 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: Sean Dunlop on Aug 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Tea Grinder, 5.8, Valley Massif.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tea Grinder is lots of fun and varied.

It opens with a fun but relaxed hand crack and after approximately 40-50 feet enters a short but strenuous/fun chimney protectable with #0.5 and 0.75 Camalots. Following the chimney the climb makes its way left into another handcrack and around a small bush and ends on a ledge for a gear belay. The final pitch follows the short (15-20 feet) offwidth section. I found the crux in the final offwidth moves.

Location 

It is on the Northwest side of the formation just right of Monkey Wrench.

Protection 

A set of nuts and #0.5 - #3 Camalot. Doubles were nice in the #1-3 range, and there is potential for a #4 in the offwidth.


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By Antwonymous
From: Northern CO
Jun 12, 2017

This route is best accessed by starting with Screw. After the chimney and climbing the left-facing dihedral, make a step across to the left, and follow the thinner crack system to a belay past the bush. Ride the lazy boy to start the second pitch, sack up, and climb the wide(ish) crack to the get to the hand jam at the top. Use some finger/off-finger stuff for after the step across, maybe a #2 Camalot and a few wide-hands to fist pieces will sew up the second pitch. Scramble up and left to move right and rap down off the boulder at the top of Screw.

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