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Upper Ledges
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 
Around the corner TR 
Athlete's Feat TR 
Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 
Class 4 Scramble T 
Crack-and-Up TR 
Falling Bodies TR 
No Gear TR 
Quartz Wall TR 
Slab to Corner TR 
Slickrock TR 
Super Slab TR 
T.B.D. T,TR 
Trail Magic  T 
Trail Magic Face TR 
Unnamed 1 TR 
UnNamed 2 TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 307
Submitted By: Kurtz on Oct 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the red line (or not).


One of the few lines on the main slab that has reasonably spaced pro.

Let me know if you know the route's name and FA.

Start in a straight, finger-sized crack that trends up and left for about 10 feet. After reaching the horizontal crack 20 ft. off the ground, zigzag back and forth to find pro opportunities in cracks and under flakes. Aim for the left side of a small overlap with a left-facing corner and an 18" diameter oak tree at top.


Very small cams, nuts, tricams (1" or less). Create anchor on medium-sized oak tree at top. PG13 because the pro is small and the flakes are less than bomber. A rappel on a 60m rope will just reach the bottom.


On the left side of the main, upper slab, there is a long, prominent, horizontal crack about 20 ft. off the ground. The route starts about 20 feet right of where the crack widens to about 8 inches (note ferns). Look for two 18" diameter trees growing together right near the slab. See the pictures for more clues.

Walk off right or rappel from the oak tree.

Photos of T.B.D. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The red line shows the start.
BETA PHOTO: The red line shows the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katja seconding T.B.D.  Note the trees at bottom t...
BETA PHOTO: Katja seconding T.B.D. Note the trees at bottom t...

Comments on T.B.D. Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Nov 17, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

This is a nice climb...but I think the pro is more "R-ish" than PG, not for its spacing, but for it's quality.
In the photo titled "follow the red line", the SECOND (orange/yellow) rope is hanging on the climb "Last Climb On The Slab (5.9 TR)*", and could also be used for Slab to Corner" TR.

  • While the left-to-right sorting of the climbs shows it first it is always called the "Last" since the trail arrives at the right-side of the slab and this is the far left end.
R Hall
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jul 9, 2017

Is this Rackless? If so then Fasulo has it at 5.6 with no gear rating. Did it today and would not want to fall on gear behind those flakes. The horizontal cracks are good though.... both of them. Like many other routes here It could benefit from a good scrubbing but overall the climbing was very good..

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