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Taylor Peak
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Taylor Made 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: W. Mayo, B. Collett, September 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Sep 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The upper part of the route.

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Description 

To the right of the the Charlie Fowler mixed route, the South Face, is a nice clean plaque of rock split by a big grassy ledge about 200 feet up. This route climbs a crack system up the left side of the plaque.

P1. Climb up a shallow, left-facing dihedral, stepping left into a face crack after 40 feet or so. Follow this to easier ground, belaying before the large ledge, 5.10-.

P2. Continue to the ledge, cross it, and climb easy ground to a nice ledge below a fetching finger crack.

P3. Climb the aforementioned finger crack then into an overhanging dihedral, and continue up to a pleasant belay ledge at 120 feet, 5.10.

P4. Move up about 10 feet to a ledge, and move right on it until a short 5.7 face allows access to the next higher ledge. Move left on this until below a groove.

P5. Follow the groove until it steepens and it is possible to step right onto a ledge where a belay can be set up, 5.9.

P6. Step right, and climb the steep, right-facing dihedral to the top of the wall, 5.10-.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.


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