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Baby Face / Middle Wall
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Taylor Made 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Black
Season: anytime
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Sep 27, 2009

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This is one of my favorite routes at Harmel's even if it has bolts close to the ground. The bolts were at least placed on lead and hand drilled. Start at a short and shallow corner at the base of the arete.

Climb up to the 1st bolt above a stiff little mantel. Continue up to the bulging face, and clip the second bolt. Surmount the bulge on hidden holds, and climb up to the bolted anchors. Be wary of the flakes on the edge of the arete, they are a wee bit crunchy and have diminished in size over the years from rough handling. The loss of these flakes would make this a much harder climb.


This ascends the arete between Baby Face and Air Conditioner corner.


2 bolts and small wires.

Comments on Taylor Made Add Comment
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By Jay M
Dec 13, 2016

A 0.4 c4 definitely helps calm the nerves on this one.
By SammyJ
From: Colorado springs
Aug 13, 2017

Gear to 3" helps unless you feel comfortable running out the last 45 feet of 5.8 after the bolts to the anchors.

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