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Tax Free 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Tom Gilje et. al., 1982.
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: john durr on Jun 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: "Tax Free". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

In the large dihedral left - east of Tax Man, climb and stem the easy thin corner crack with a rotten hand crack on the right wall of the dihedral to the roof (ok pro in hand crack). Get good pro at the start of the roof then progressively harder under-clinging with thin edges for feet end at a desperate blind reach around the roof for a funky hand jam (crux). Mantle and finish the nice easy finger crack above.

Descend via Tax Man's single rope rappel anchors or scramble off west towards Copenhagen Wall.

Protection 

Pro: light rack nuts and cams to 2.5 inches, include tiny cams. It is desperate to place pro along the roof with the smallest aliens or super small camelots. Alternatives are to go for it (scary) or place a yellow alien in the only good hand hold along the roof.

Gear belay 1-3" cams.


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